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The biggest hassle in the conversion is the tank. The carb can be adapted easily unless it is a cruise control version. I found it easier to buy a carb tank and paint it to match my bike. ( then I can go back to EFI if I get stupid and want to. )
I'm interested to know why you say that. Admittedly the EFI tank I have is an 09, but installing a Pingel tap was all that was required. I'm still working on a gas gauge solution, but that doesn't get in the way of conversion.
Try to get an older model carb that has the overflow fitting, if you have a float or petcock issue it's better to have fuel run on the ground then into your motor.
The lines inside the earlier tank are metal and brazed in. You had to cut and grind them out. Makes the job irreversible. ( or you could fabricate a new fitting at the bung location towards the front of the tank. )
Bronco Billy....I performed this conversion on my '96 FLHTC (formerly "I"). I went with a S&S carb and intake, Crane Hi-4 ignition, and the Pingel fuel tank "kit" and petcock. You'll need the older ignition rotor, IIRC it's a -81 part.
PM me if you have any questions. I did the convert for the same reasons...M&M was starting to have issues and there was NOTHING aftermarket for the early ('95-'96) EFI systems.
I would think these could be some benefits to changing to carb:
1. Fuel pump failure - your SOL if this happens on a trip
2. Hi-pressure fuel line leak/failure - expensive to replace fuel lines, and who carries spares?
3. Fuel Injection Body failure - what to do if it fails on the road?
4. Easier tuning - no need to purchase a tuner
That's all I can think of right now. Any comments?
I have a 2001 RK; just not sure if I should trust the MM system. It works ok so far, however, I did have to replace the high-pressure fittings in the tank when I replaced my throttle cables.
I would think these could be some benefits to changing to carb:
1. Fuel pump failure - your SOL if this happens on a trip
2. Hi-pressure fuel line leak/failure - expensive to replace fuel lines, and who carries spares?
3. Fuel Injection Body failure - what to do if it fails on the road?
4. Easier tuning - no need to purchase a tuner
That's all I can think of right now. Any comments?
I have a 2001 RK; just not sure if I should trust the MM system. It works ok so far, however, I did have to replace the high-pressure fittings in the tank when I replaced my throttle cables.
The M&M isn't that bad of a system but has limitations, just like in any mechanical field, the public will make it known of a failed product as creature of habit but won't put the vocal energy into something that "works"
Most owners remove the M&M when the maintainace starts overweighing it's worth with the simplicity of the controled drip carb is possible. When idles start changing, surging, shutting off and running like 99 cent paint, it becomes decision time to spend money to resurect the EFI or go to control drip, that is where you find if you are a gambler.
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