Tear down....Here we go!
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,236
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From: Indiana
All I can tell you is what I saw in his shop. 30 or so bikes he's restored, Harley jugs waiting to be rebored, and the local Harley shop recommended him.
I guess we really won't know until she's all back together cruising down the road.
I guess we really won't know until she's all back together cruising down the road.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,310
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From: Honah Lee
[quote=3408pete;10735046]
Probably splitting hairs here and just annoying dog but .0005-.003 is no problem honing depending on finish and Harley calls for .003. I think but could be wrong but the sleeve in a Harley is not cast iron but a thin steel sleeve with the cast aluminum poured and investment (Styrofoam mold) cast around it. Steel will bore totally different then cast iron. You are right in the fact it takes really good boring equipment to hold this kind of tolerance. When you look at how small the clearance is between the Teflon covered piston and cylinder in a Harley it totally amazes me for an air cooled motor. I have rebuilt many a car motor (on the cheap) with 3-4 times too much clearance an seen them go another 100K. However from what I understand .003 is the maximum running cold clearance and no more then .002 variation top to bottom or you will hear piston slap.
If you go .010 over, you bore it leaving .0005 or so.
the last class I went to in the late 80s said a minimum of 2thousandths to get the fracture marks from the boring bar out with the new rings.Back in the day when everyone used the Hastings rings (bore as you drove/rode).0005 was considered enough. with the sophisticated new hone machines I think a person could get that with ease at 2 thousandths and still maintain a straight bore.Cyl wall fit and finish is where lots of power can be lost as well as longevity
the last class I went to in the late 80s said a minimum of 2thousandths to get the fracture marks from the boring bar out with the new rings.Back in the day when everyone used the Hastings rings (bore as you drove/rode).0005 was considered enough. with the sophisticated new hone machines I think a person could get that with ease at 2 thousandths and still maintain a straight bore.Cyl wall fit and finish is where lots of power can be lost as well as longevity
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: on the road
I am about .004 on mine now.I am probably to stupid to hear it over the drag pipes .I did this to be able to use some give away pistons that were forged Jahns if I remeber right.
If you really ever have a chance look at a steel bored cyl after it has had a bar put thru it and had crosshatch just put in .then look at a cast.The cast looks fracutred under a microscope.The steel appears to be almost a thread like appearance.With that being said I did it the wrong way to start and didnt have a whole lot of REPORTED issues
If you really ever have a chance look at a steel bored cyl after it has had a bar put thru it and had crosshatch just put in .then look at a cast.The cast looks fracutred under a microscope.The steel appears to be almost a thread like appearance.With that being said I did it the wrong way to start and didnt have a whole lot of REPORTED issues
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 957
Likes: 2
From: Carlsbad Springs Ontario
top end rebuild.
Here is what i do know ., your pics of the cylinder look like a cylinder that hasent been " rebored " yet. The vertical wear marks prove this as they are the type of wear that a rebore is required to remove. Im not sure what your machine shop pro. is doing but suggest you simply ask him.
As for your valve and spark plug pics., they all look ok to me but as the Bros. say ... looking dosent really do it . If you have her all apart , now is the time to replace/rebuild ALL the wear parts in the entire valve train . Start with the cam and work your way up through all the components involved. If you dont have a Harley shop manual for your sled , get one and read it to familiarize yourself with the procedures involved with your rebuild , you will be glad you did as i have found that most engine machine shops have been around for much longer than the last new guy they hired and you can at least be able to ask pertinant questions regarding YOUR motor work.
Question ... whats with those copper tubes that do the same as the Hayden oil kit , have never seen these before as im a newbie to HD.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 625
Likes: 102
From: New Albany, Ms.
Cylinder Pigtail Kit
Different fix than the Hayden.
Ride safe,
Harold
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Indiana
So, I'm getting the block ready for the jugs, and I removed the gasket. Look what was stuck in one of the holes in the block.
What the heck? Is that supposed to be in the hole??
What the heck? Is that supposed to be in the hole??
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
See where that hole goes. Appears to be a hole they drilled to access another lube hole to join with another. Then they plugged the drill hole with a plug. See them in carburetors and such. Also in castings but they are called freeze plugs there. Least what it looks like.
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 259
Likes: 1
From: Kingston, Ontario
Looks to me like the oil return from the heads has been plugged, your engine has had some work done on it before.
Some people and manufactures of heads do this in an effort to reduce oil temperature, (If you have the manual and look at the fold out insert of the oil system illustration 2 figure 10). The return is plugged and run outside the case in an effort to reduce oil temp. If you do not have external lines I would think it would have been puking oil. Could there be a chance this is where the motor was seeping from. Others with more experience on this should be able to help shed a little more light.
Cheers
Some people and manufactures of heads do this in an effort to reduce oil temperature, (If you have the manual and look at the fold out insert of the oil system illustration 2 figure 10). The return is plugged and run outside the case in an effort to reduce oil temp. If you do not have external lines I would think it would have been puking oil. Could there be a chance this is where the motor was seeping from. Others with more experience on this should be able to help shed a little more light.
Cheers