Tear down....Here we go!
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Indiana
Well, unless Harley used metal gaskets in 1995 Evo's, Bertha has already had a gasket upgrade.
The studs are in great shape, not loose or anything.
I'm trying to figure out why the base gaskets were leaking..................
The studs are in great shape, not loose or anything.
I'm trying to figure out why the base gaskets were leaking..................
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From: Honah Lee
Interesting how they look. Scuffing is normal for an unbuttoned non teflon piston old style piston but the crosshatch in the no wear areas does not look original factory. If that is the cylinders after they have been reworked, they sure have not been rebored .010 over.
He had just run the honing tool through them to remove the glaze.
Still a little confused here. Why is he honing before he bored them?
He had just run the honing tool through them to remove the glaze.
Still a little confused here. Why is he honing before he bored them?
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From: on the road
maybe the Op needs to clarify what the machinist used to do the prochedure-----Was it a boring bar? or was it a honing machine like the sunnen ck10..I am leery of shops who bore then just stick a crosshatch in the cyl walls------the fractures from the boring bar will still be evident to hack saw your rings up,they are visible under a magnifying glass
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Indiana
OK, maybe honing is the wrong word......I've never been involved with this process before.
The machine shop guy had a tool with "flat sanding bars" on it that he could expand when he inserted it into the jug. He ran it through a couple of times to "remove the glaze" while I was there.
I'll be going back today to see where he is and take more pictures.
This guy has been building bikes for 40 years. His shop had several Harley jugs waiting for honing/boring whatever you call it.
The machine shop guy had a tool with "flat sanding bars" on it that he could expand when he inserted it into the jug. He ran it through a couple of times to "remove the glaze" while I was there.
I'll be going back today to see where he is and take more pictures.
This guy has been building bikes for 40 years. His shop had several Harley jugs waiting for honing/boring whatever you call it.
Last edited by traildog; Jan 4, 2013 at 07:14 AM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Indiana
Looked at them last night. All flush to the collar around them.
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From: on the road
If he was just standing at a bench with the jugs in a torgue plate with a big drill and a hone I would be leery.There is really no need to deglaze a cyl that needs to go over size.Using a hand drill could very well give you a cyl thats not straight in the bore.Smaller overbores are more difficult and for power and longevity they need to be done right.A local shop that had existed for years just used a hand hone and until the new shop with a sunnen machine started in business and the new guy showed customers with a dial bore guage how much taper the cyls had at the end of their life when he had a guy bring him a pair that had just been done at the other shop the dial bore guage showed they were that way from the start
he might of ran the hone in to just check wear in a fashion-----------------instead of knowing with a dial bore gauge
he might of ran the hone in to just check wear in a fashion-----------------instead of knowing with a dial bore gauge
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From: Honah Lee
If you go .010 over, you bore it leaving .0005 or so. This insures it is round and true. Then you use a hone to do the crosshatch for finish and proper lubrication for breaking. That is why I was confused since you said shop told you needed to go .010 over. What he did (in my opinion) was break glaze and installed a new standard piston and that is what it appeared to do in picture since you can still see wear. That is what I would have done since wear looked to be only about .002-.003. However I would not have been paying someone to make it like new as you did. However this is just my opinion. Maybe he does hone .010 but that is a lot and as stones wear uneven it would be hard to hold size and they can never go completely thru while operation is going on. Not trying to stir things up. Just wanted you to get what you paid for. I retired from 46 years of machine shop experience but I am sure some small shops come up with their own way of machining with what they have to work with. The bottom line is however they do it, it needs inspected with micrometers and insides mics to insure it is correct. If it were me and I did not have these tools I would pay a third party $5.00-$10.00 to do so.
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From: on the road
[QUOTE=RIPSAW;10734906]If you go .010 over, you bore it leaving .0005 or so.
the last class I went to in the late 80s said a minimum of 2thousandths to get the fracture marks from the boring bar out with the new rings.Back in the day when everyone used the Hastings rings (bore as you drove/rode).0005 was considered enough. with the sophisticated new hone machines I think a person could get that with ease at 2 thousandths and still maintain a straight bore.Cyl wall fit and finish is where lots of power can be lost as well as longevity
the last class I went to in the late 80s said a minimum of 2thousandths to get the fracture marks from the boring bar out with the new rings.Back in the day when everyone used the Hastings rings (bore as you drove/rode).0005 was considered enough. with the sophisticated new hone machines I think a person could get that with ease at 2 thousandths and still maintain a straight bore.Cyl wall fit and finish is where lots of power can be lost as well as longevity