Unedited: Adding a second relay to fix the dreaded click
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 957
Likes: 2
From: Carlsbad Springs Ontario
Since your idea effectively " bypasses " all the current robbing culprits in the original elec. system , i would assume that the only way to get the dreaded click now whould be a low battery or pooched starter solenoid.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
I just unplugged the 87 connector of the original relay and ran a wire with a 20 amp fuse from the battery to the 87 connector on the relay and the bike starts fine.
I did not add a relay.
I wrapped the original 87 connector with some electrical tape.
Now to see if it stands the test of time.
edit: every where I put 87 I should have put 30 oops.
I did not add a relay.
I wrapped the original 87 connector with some electrical tape.
Now to see if it stands the test of time.
edit: every where I put 87 I should have put 30 oops.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
I just unplugged the 87 connector of the original relay and ran a wire with a 20 amp fuse from the battery to the 87 connector on the relay and the bike starts fine.
I did not add a relay.
I wrapped the original 87 connector with some electrical tape.
Now to see if it stands the test of time.
I did not add a relay.
I wrapped the original 87 connector with some electrical tape.
Now to see if it stands the test of time.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
If you truly did this and got the numbers right, there is some seriously messed up wiring on your bike! The 87 tab of the original relay is the output to the solenoid, nothing else. Disconnecting it from the relay effectively removes any chance of the solenoid getting any juice at all. Connecting a 20amp fused wire from battery positive to the 87 tab doesn't do anything, either, because the tab is dead unless you push the start button, and then it is 12v positive already.
I guess I got confused in the 100 degree heat in my garage.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
Ok, so you just bypassed your ignition switch then. Go hit your start button with the ignition switch off and it'll still turn over. That's why you need to add the relay the way I described.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
The relay seems to be working correctly.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
Looking at my wiring diagram, tab 30 is connected to and gets it's voltage from the ignition switch. You disconnected that feed and fed it direct battery power. Tab 87a is connected to the direct battery power any time you are not pushing the start button now. Tab 87a goes through the accy breaker where it branches off to the horn and the dash lights, etc.
So does your horn and or dash lights work all the time now?
So does your horn and or dash lights work all the time now?
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
I see why it seems to work. The start button gets it's juice from the kill switch, which gets it's juice from the ignition switch, which gets it's juice from the main circuit breaker. When you turn off your ignition switch, you kill the feed to the kill switch and starter button. You do NOT kill the constant feed to the acc breaker, which feeds the dash lights, brake lights and horn.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,175
Likes: 12,745
From: South Carolina
No, it does not. I`m not talking about the wire for the control voltage that actuates the relay, I`m talking about the supply wire that supplies the higher current that is sent to the solenoid coil.