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With todays corn diluted fuels the needles will leak and look fine. I've replace a half dozen this year alone. If you look at them under a magnifying glass they look fine, but still leak. Use dish detergent and a new seal when you remount the carb.
John
With todays corn diluted fuels the needles will leak and look fine. I've replace a half dozen this year alone. If you look at them under a magnifying glass they look fine, but still leak. Use dish detergent and a new seal when you remount the carb.
John
Dish detergent is was leak teating I would imagine but when you say seal do you mean carb to manifold gasket? Was also wandering if I should change the seals going from manifold to heads?
Don't mean to hijack this thread... however, I was wondering why the CV carb is so much better, than a Mikuni or other.
Thinking about getting one for my EFI to carb conversion; $295 a pretty good price?
In a nutshell (and very simplified of course):
butterflies, like S&S - high speeds, performance, racing, highway, long hauls, touring;
slides, like Mikuni - city driving, stop and go, constant transitions between mods and circuits;
CV's - compromise between those two, plus self-adjust for altitude advantage
In a nutshell (and very simplified of course):
butterflies, like S&S - high speeds, performance, racing, highway, long hauls, touring;
slides, like Mikuni - city driving, stop and go, constant transitions between mods and circuits;
CV's - compromise between those two, plus self-adjust for altitude advantage
Always heard that S&S was for HP & Mikuni was for torque. ( very simplified of course) Wondered where the CV's came in.
Good simplification, even a old redneck can understand. :-)
I'm a believer that float levels don't generally need to be reset unless the float needle has deteriated and in that case just replace the float needle.
Man I am not disagreeing with you all I am saying is what fixed mine.
Checking the float level costs nothing.
Man I am not disagreeing with you all I am saying is what fixed mine.
Checking the float level costs nothing.
the new fuels seem to attack fuel line with a vengeance-------most of the float issues I see have microscopic pieces of rubber holding the needle off the seat.I bought a better filter and moved it closer to the carb as well as replace fuel lines yearly.Still had a issue the other day where the crossover line between the tanks came off going down the road and had drawn up so much I couldnt get it back on without it splitting.The hose was put on in July last year
Dish detergent is was leak teating I would imagine but when you say seal do you mean carb to manifold gasket? Was also wandering if I should change the seals going from manifold to heads?
Yes, you can use it for the carb to manifold gasket. If it has been awhile on the manifold to head gaskets, and you're already in there, probably a good idea. I replaced all the gaskets as there were not old, but could tell by touch they had dried out a bit and were not as supple.
I'm a believer that float levels don't generally need to be reset unless the float needle has deteriated and in that case just replace the float needle.
Then you would be mistaken in that belief sir....you should check float level at least once a year. Many things can put it out of spec.
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