I have just replaced the clutch kit and diaphragm spring in my 1986 FLST which went along OK after following the Harley workshop manual but now I am adjusting the clutch cable and it says to leave about 1/6" to 1/8" free play on the cable but if I do this the clutch lever will not disengage the clutch.
In order to disengage the clutch I need to tighten the cable really tight so there is no free play in the cable at all and then even tighter.

I am wondering why this is happening?

I installed the new clutch kit in the same order as the old one came out and made sure I had the diaphragm spring as close to flat as possible and within specs as detailed in the workshop manual and then I seated the adjuster screw and turned it back half a turn and then tightened the lock nut..

Can anyone comment as to what the problem may be?

 

Something ain't right there. Don't run it like that. Are these aftermarket or HD parts? Try putting the stepped plate thing on a different spot and see what happens.

 

Does yours have the adjustment bolt in the middle of the clutch pack?

I would say it isn't adjusted right if you do.

 

Thanks for the replies...
I was reading some other forums and came across this one and it sounds exactly like what is happening to me so I will adjust the clutch back to specs and give it a try.

POST: "Clutch won't disengage rear wheel:
I've only posted a few times on here so please be patient with me. I've got a problem that I'm not sure how to fix. First off, I have a 1998 Dyna FXDL. This winter I had to remove the inner primary (clutch, compensating sprocket, primary chain, clutch cable, etc.) to replace the rear drive belt that had a slight tear. Over the past few days, I've been putting this whole thing back together and adjusted the clutch at both the clutch basket and clutch cable. My problem is that when I pull the clutch lever in, it does not disengage the rear wheel. I put it into gear and try to roll the bike and it acts as though the clutch is engaged. I have the outer primary still off and can see the clutch basket move when the lever is pulled in. But nothing disengages. I pulled the clutch release cover off and everything looks good. When I pulled this apart this winter, I did not take the clutch plate basket apart so it would have been in the same condition it was in the fall and everything was working last fall.

Any help or suggestions would surely be appreciated. I've been working on these things for quite a few years and am pretty handy with a wrench. But when I get stuck I'm not too proud to admit it and would really like some help with this. The weather in upstate NY is starting to turn good and I'm still down wrenching. HELP ME PLEASE. Thanks"

REPLY: "Even when adjusted correctly there is still some friction between the plates with the clutch disengaged. Could be you are just fine. Try holding the front brake, pull the clutch in, and try to start the bike. It should only jolt forward a little before the clutch plates breaks free.

REPLY: "I am working on an old SUzuki that's been sitting. In order to free the clutch, I had to put it in neutral, start it, pull in the clutch lever, jam it into first. Bike stalled the first 3 times. 4th time it freed it self. You're fine."

POST: "Thanks for the help everyone. I added the oil, put it in gear and rocked it back and forth and the clutch broke loose.
I may yet be able to take advantage of the strange warm Upstate NY weather we are having.
Thanks again for all your help."

 

I am sure that would be the problem...well I hope it.

 

So, if you way overtighten the cable, it will release? If it does, then stuck plates isn't your problem. And if you just put the basket together, they aren't going to be stuck either as described. I dunno if you're missing a plate or two or have one too many or if the tension is just way off, but I think you are going to be taking it apart either way.

 

Also, is the whole bike together to a point that you can start it up? Are you trying to judge the disengagement point by manually turning the rear wheel with it on a stand? That's not necessarily the right test.

 

Just make sure your clutch pushrod bolt is adjusted properly before adjusting the cable.
Loosen the cable completely, all the way possible, open the derby cover, loosen the nut, screw in the adjusting bolt all the way in, then back it up half turn (the book says 1 turn, I usually go half), tighten the nut. Then adjust your cable as you please.
Should work if everything else is in place...

 

Hi , heres the latest on my clutch saga....I was using a brand new diaphragm spring that I purchased from JP Cycles http://www.jpcycles.com/product/6300177 in the rebuild and could not get the clutch pushrod bolt adjusted properly so after many attempts I decided to put the old diaphragm spring that came out of the bike and what do you know...all adjusted perfectly and the clutch works great..
The only reason I replaced the spring is because I was doing the rebuild so there must be something wrong with the new spring.
I don't understand as the new spring looks like the old spring and fits the same as the old spring but it cant be adjusted??? Any one have any ideas?

 

Interesting. Even if the new spring makes the whole clutch fatter, as long as the adjustment screw can touch the pushrod - it should work. Unless you've changed the tranny cover or smth so the pushrod isn't long enough anymore. Was the round plate with the screw sitting properly with the lockspring in the new diaphragm setup?