into the Deutch plug... Doesn't seem to drop the voltage at all.
3 phase charging system check?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,298
Likes: 6,324
From: Honah Lee
I do not think your problem is magnets. if there was not enough size, your voltage would be low on AC at 2000 but it would still work. It charges at say 1100 rpm with 13.8 DC which will charge, just slow but not at it full potential as say 2000 14.9DC which is max for battery life. It appeared somewhere up there you had correct AC volts from stator. Your problem is further on either regulator or how you have it connected down the line to the regulator and then to the battery. Three phase magnets alternator rotor with spline drive and one stripped out. Later version went to stronger seration drive (small V that is much tighter fit and easier to produce with close tolerances for Harley).
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 10:26 AM.
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 517
Likes: 6
From: Ottawa, ON
Well if the magnet is to big, in theory it could be a problem - smaller posts in bigger number, maybe the 3 phases don't come in exactly 120 degrees? Just realized I could've borrowed a scope somewhere to test this version.
As I mentioned it is supposed to work with stock rotors, like the ones on the pic., but noone knows how big the magnets are in that aftermarket sealed rotor (hmm, I suppose I could verify that too).
My connections should be alright - 3 wires plugged into 3 phases, ground goes to ground, and the only long wire left is plus. I doubt I'd instantly fry the regulator if I try it with no load (not connected to the battery).
In any case, the 3 phase stator has been ordered, will see...
As I mentioned it is supposed to work with stock rotors, like the ones on the pic., but noone knows how big the magnets are in that aftermarket sealed rotor (hmm, I suppose I could verify that too).
My connections should be alright - 3 wires plugged into 3 phases, ground goes to ground, and the only long wire left is plus. I doubt I'd instantly fry the regulator if I try it with no load (not connected to the battery).
In any case, the 3 phase stator has been ordered, will see...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,298
Likes: 6,324
From: Honah Lee
Be sure to let us know what turns up. Too big should not hurt since the regulator should act as a correcting buffer just like it does at 4000rpm. I went out on line but did not see anything. I got my info on magnets from Soft02 and PM him to chime in here. He's probably caught in CA traffic right now.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...a-choices.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...a-choices.html
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 517
Likes: 6
From: Ottawa, ON
It's true - that thread makes it really confusing. I checked my aftermarket rotor - it got 6 magnets. I'd still say if they are too big, maybe it causes two phases not to be split enough (say 70 degrees vs 120), so the regulator doesn't like it?
Or the rotor is simply to weak: OEM is supposed to be good for 32A, mine would be 28A for instance (who the hell knows), but that stator is 38A (or 40). Then the rotor just wouldn't pull it I'd guess.
In any case, these are just speculations. Cannot wait for the new 3 phase rotor tonight!
Or the rotor is simply to weak: OEM is supposed to be good for 32A, mine would be 28A for instance (who the hell knows), but that stator is 38A (or 40). Then the rotor just wouldn't pull it I'd guess.
In any case, these are just speculations. Cannot wait for the new 3 phase rotor tonight!
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 517
Likes: 6
From: Ottawa, ON
:'(
no luck with aftermarket CycleElectric rotor (that for some reason has only HD part number stamped on it, and HD instructions, but twice as expensive - -lesson learned). This rotor has 6 magnets as well btw...
But! It worked alright if I connect the old 2 phase regulator between any 2 phases!
So this whole thing remains a mystery. I'd think most probable thing is, my shady aftermarket regulator was defective, and, just coincidentally, the one I got from the dealer was defective too (maybe that's why they took it back so easily).
So I just decided not to take any more chances and waste time, coz I need the bike for a roadtrip, and got a stock stator from the dealer.
The damage so far:
aftermarket crap: $160 or so altogether,
CyceElectric rotor (with HD part number stamped on it): $190
HD stator: $190
Thus, for slightly over $500, I ended up with a stock 32A system, supposedly genuine superior quality, haha
I guess a lesson learned here - screwing around with a bike also gotta have some limits, esp. if aftermarket electrics involved...
no luck with aftermarket CycleElectric rotor (that for some reason has only HD part number stamped on it, and HD instructions, but twice as expensive - -lesson learned). This rotor has 6 magnets as well btw...
But! It worked alright if I connect the old 2 phase regulator between any 2 phases!
So this whole thing remains a mystery. I'd think most probable thing is, my shady aftermarket regulator was defective, and, just coincidentally, the one I got from the dealer was defective too (maybe that's why they took it back so easily).
So I just decided not to take any more chances and waste time, coz I need the bike for a roadtrip, and got a stock stator from the dealer.
The damage so far:
aftermarket crap: $160 or so altogether,
CyceElectric rotor (with HD part number stamped on it): $190
HD stator: $190
Thus, for slightly over $500, I ended up with a stock 32A system, supposedly genuine superior quality, haha
I guess a lesson learned here - screwing around with a bike also gotta have some limits, esp. if aftermarket electrics involved...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,195
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From: NW AR
I suspected that regulator was shot, and I suspected that second one you got was shot as well, from your measurements. Your experiences are why I don't recommend aftermarket electrical system components, as I've BTDT decades ago and learned my lesson.
I think that in an emergency, you could have made what you have work with a rather complicated diode bridge between the 3 phase stator and the 2 phase regulator, but, best to just use the right parts.
I think that in an emergency, you could have made what you have work with a rather complicated diode bridge between the 3 phase stator and the 2 phase regulator, but, best to just use the right parts.
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 517
Likes: 6
From: Ottawa, ON
Yes, it does sound like a regulator. Just talked to an indy shop, they also say if it checks out with a 2 phase reg, and no continuity to the ground, the rotor-stator combo must be alright. They said though that 3 phase regs are very reliable, that's why they don't even stock them.
The last statement gives me mixed feelings - from one side if I get this 3 phase up and running, it will be more bullet proof than the stock, from the other side, it is so unlikely that I got 2 bad regulators in a row (unless running them with no load, i.e. not connected to the battery, would fry them instantly).
So I'm having back thoughts now - maybe I should give it another shot with that $160 or whatever part from that indy shop, before I install the HD stator?
The last statement gives me mixed feelings - from one side if I get this 3 phase up and running, it will be more bullet proof than the stock, from the other side, it is so unlikely that I got 2 bad regulators in a row (unless running them with no load, i.e. not connected to the battery, would fry them instantly).
So I'm having back thoughts now - maybe I should give it another shot with that $160 or whatever part from that indy shop, before I install the HD stator?
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 517
Likes: 6
From: Ottawa, ON
Gonna go tonight try to get one more 3 phase regulator.
Now after talking to some friends, I have even more doubts in my measurement procedure:
If this type of regs works totally different from the 2 phase ones, i.e. they don't dump excess of voltage to the ground, but rather block it, maybe then with no load (a circuit tester has an infinite resistance) I am not supposed to measure any meaningful voltage?
But then why didn't I see the voltage increase when connected to the battery (again, maybe it's because the battery was fully charged at that point)?
Now after talking to some friends, I have even more doubts in my measurement procedure:
If this type of regs works totally different from the 2 phase ones, i.e. they don't dump excess of voltage to the ground, but rather block it, maybe then with no load (a circuit tester has an infinite resistance) I am not supposed to measure any meaningful voltage?
But then why didn't I see the voltage increase when connected to the battery (again, maybe it's because the battery was fully charged at that point)?