3 phase charging system check?
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 517
Likes: 6
From: Ottawa, ON
3 phase charging system check?
Being a cheap a$$, bought aftermarket 3 phase stator (claimed to go with a stock rotor) and regulator.
Of course it doesn't work! Get about 0.5 V on idle and 1.5V on 1500 rpm, battery disconnected. Ground seem to be alright (frame - regulator body - regulator short wire).
Measured the voltage coming out of alternator itself:
25VAC on idle, 30VAC on 1500 rpm between any pair of phases. Does this sound normal, given that 2 phase system gets us 40 - 60 VAC? Logically it does, since there are 3 coils in place of 2, so they must be smaller...
No continuity between any phase and the ground, which sounds alright too.
Anybody got experience with those?
If my alternator is fine, then I just gotta get a new regulator, which is "only" $200 something at the stealer, but no way I'm going aftermarket again with this!
Of course it doesn't work! Get about 0.5 V on idle and 1.5V on 1500 rpm, battery disconnected. Ground seem to be alright (frame - regulator body - regulator short wire).
Measured the voltage coming out of alternator itself:
25VAC on idle, 30VAC on 1500 rpm between any pair of phases. Does this sound normal, given that 2 phase system gets us 40 - 60 VAC? Logically it does, since there are 3 coils in place of 2, so they must be smaller...
No continuity between any phase and the ground, which sounds alright too.
Anybody got experience with those?
If my alternator is fine, then I just gotta get a new regulator, which is "only" $200 something at the stealer, but no way I'm going aftermarket again with this!
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,062
Likes: 4,547
From: Haslet Texas
Man if I were you I would bite the bullet and get a new stator/regulator.
Either OEM or Cycle Electric.
One thing I have noticed about buying cheap parts or tools is that you get what you pay for.
Either OEM or Cycle Electric.
One thing I have noticed about buying cheap parts or tools is that you get what you pay for.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 517
Likes: 6
From: Ottawa, ON
Haha, yeah, but i REALLY don't wanna open the primary!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,195
Likes: 3,085
From: NW AR
I don't have any experience troubleshooting 3 phase systems, but your numbers sound reasonable to me. It sounds like the regulator is bad. Sounds like you need a new 3 phase regulator. Does the dealer carry those?
Sometimes you can out-cheap yourself. Electrical system components is one of those areas.
Sometimes you can out-cheap yourself. Electrical system components is one of those areas.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 517
Likes: 6
From: Ottawa, ON
Yes, I've already got the regulator this morning - they stock em coz they often go bad (sigh)...
Then, given my readings, I guess there is no harm if I plug in the new one and measure the output on open terminals first?
Then, given my readings, I guess there is no harm if I plug in the new one and measure the output on open terminals first?
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 517
Likes: 6
From: Ottawa, ON
Oh yeah, another thought: does it matter which of 3 phase wires goes where into the regulator? If yes I could've wired them wrong, while assembling the connector. On 2 phase system I know it doesn't.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,195
Likes: 3,085
From: NW AR
Again, I'm not an expert on 3 phase systems, but, in my opinion, I see no way that it would make any difference in the wiring. You have 3 wires, there's always a potential between any 2 wires, so I don't see how it would matter. I certainly can see no way it would damage the regulator side unless you left one wire off or something. Then I could see a problem.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: NW AR
Also, I don't recommend using any type of cover on the regulator. I believe that most of those only trap heat in the regulator by blocking the cooling fins, unless you basically filled the cover up with heat sync compound, which no one does. It is more important to me to have a functioning electrical system than a cool looking chrome piece.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
On my 3 phase 2004 Softail, you check AC volts across each leg at 2000rpm. Should be about 36 AC. (it will only be about half that at 1000) The regulator of course with diodes cuts this to about 14.7 or so DC at 2000 rpm. The key here is the base line test RPM of 2000. Ignore any voltage below that. There is nothing magic about the 3 phase, Just the fact that they can make the regulator cheaper with lighter duty parts and do the same work. All you really need to see is the 14.8 DC at 2000 at the battery and see it taper off after running a while as the battery charges to the 12.7 DC volts or so. All those other test are if you have a problem and deciding on what to fix.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 517
Likes: 6
From: Ottawa, ON
Hmm, this sounds promising, since I already get 25VAC at 1000
Will try that again - was hesitant to spin it faster on idle since It got brand new rings...
Will try that again - was hesitant to spin it faster on idle since It got brand new rings...