Too much oil
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Too much oil
Wife's bike an 89 heritage decided it was going to do some seeping out the derby sitting on the kickstand. When we got home I pulled the derby and new before I pulled the last bolt that I would need the drip pan. Pulled the cover and sure enough too much oil.
So my thoughts, last time I changed the primary I had remembered reading somewhere or in the manual that the heritage unlike the same year flhtp takes more oil. In my flhtp I normally just dump in a litre of ATF and with her heritage I think I used like 1.5 liters or something like that ,found it in the manual and pretty sure I would have done it with bike on jack straight up.
Question is what is the recommended oil capacity in the primary for the 89 heritage ?
My next question is if the crank seal is leaking into the primary is it a safe repair doing it from in the primary with the inerds removed or should I say can it be repaired from in the primary?
Thanks
So my thoughts, last time I changed the primary I had remembered reading somewhere or in the manual that the heritage unlike the same year flhtp takes more oil. In my flhtp I normally just dump in a litre of ATF and with her heritage I think I used like 1.5 liters or something like that ,found it in the manual and pretty sure I would have done it with bike on jack straight up.
Question is what is the recommended oil capacity in the primary for the 89 heritage ?
My next question is if the crank seal is leaking into the primary is it a safe repair doing it from in the primary with the inerds removed or should I say can it be repaired from in the primary?
Thanks
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
Wife's bike an 89 heritage decided it was going to do some seeping out the derby sitting on the kickstand. When we got home I pulled the derby and new before I pulled the last bolt that I would need the drip pan. Pulled the cover and sure enough too much oil.
So my thoughts, last time I changed the primary I had remembered reading somewhere or in the manual that the heritage unlike the same year flhtp takes more oil. In my flhtp I normally just dump in a litre of ATF and with her heritage I think I used like 1.5 liters or something like that ,found it in the manual and pretty sure I would have done it with bike on jack straight up.
Question is what is the recommended oil capacity in the primary for the 89 heritage ?
My next question is if the crank seal is leaking into the primary is it a safe repair doing it from in the primary with the inerds removed or should I say can it be repaired from in the primary?
Thanks
So my thoughts, last time I changed the primary I had remembered reading somewhere or in the manual that the heritage unlike the same year flhtp takes more oil. In my flhtp I normally just dump in a litre of ATF and with her heritage I think I used like 1.5 liters or something like that ,found it in the manual and pretty sure I would have done it with bike on jack straight up.
Question is what is the recommended oil capacity in the primary for the 89 heritage ?
My next question is if the crank seal is leaking into the primary is it a safe repair doing it from in the primary with the inerds removed or should I say can it be repaired from in the primary?
Thanks
I don't know about the '89 but mine I just fill to the bottom of the clutch hub.
I have no idea what you are trying to ask with the second question.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Tex did I do that bad? Basically I've heard of instances where the primary side crank seal starts leaking into the primary, increasing the amount of oil in primary and decreasing oil in the oil bag. If this is the case can the seal be replaced from in the primary?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,583
Likes: 115
From: Boston, MA
This is how I did mine, a,1998 Fltr
Remove primary
Remove chain tensioner
Remove stator nut, 1-1/2" torqued to ~170lbs
Remove chain
Remove stator stuff
Remove 12026b, inspect the perfectly good part and replace it anyway. Then wonder...
Properly seat the new seal.
Hit rewind.
Remove primary
Remove chain tensioner
Remove stator nut, 1-1/2" torqued to ~170lbs
Remove chain
Remove stator stuff
Remove 12026b, inspect the perfectly good part and replace it anyway. Then wonder...
Properly seat the new seal.
Hit rewind.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 2
From: Florida
As for the seal, yes you change it from the primary, you have to pull the guts out, compensator, clutch hub, primary chain, rotor, and the seal. Change the spacer too.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
To be honest I don't know for sure but I think you can.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
I topped up the oil bag and removed some oil from the primary so I know where it is with bag on side stand, I'll get her out for a few good rides and check it again.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,079
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From: Ohio
Crank seal lip is set up to seal the primary oil from entering the engine, the engine is dry sump and holds no oil in the case unless you have the oil bag draining into the engine case by the famous oil pump check ball. See if you are loosing some engine oil while setting.
Yes, you can change the seal behind the compensator and probaly needs replaced but think you have 2 problems, hardened crank seal and oil pump check ball seaping - just a thought
Yes, you can change the seal behind the compensator and probaly needs replaced but think you have 2 problems, hardened crank seal and oil pump check ball seaping - just a thought
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Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Crank seal lip is set up to seal the primary oil from entering the engine, the engine is dry sump and holds no oil in the case unless you have the oil bag draining into the engine case by the famous oil pump check ball. See if you are loosing some engine oil while setting.
Yes, you can change the seal behind the compensator and probaly needs replaced but think you have 2 problems, hardened crank seal and oil pump check ball seaping - just a thought
Yes, you can change the seal behind the compensator and probaly needs replaced but think you have 2 problems, hardened crank seal and oil pump check ball seaping - just a thought
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 101
Likes: 9
From: Truckee
Replacing the seal/spacer is relatively easy, once you get all the parts out of the way. To install new part, you can use the comp. sprocket nut and a piece of PVC (I think I cut mine around 2 inches) to press the seal and spacer into place, as one unit. I greased up the lip of the seal to avoid any initial burn into the spacer (I am probably overly cautious).
When you bolt the stator back into place, I sealed up the screw holes on the stator and stator clip. I was told on this forum that the holes go through the engine cases and can allow engine oil to seep into primary if not sealed. A tube of ATV should fix you up.
When you bolt the stator back into place, I sealed up the screw holes on the stator and stator clip. I was told on this forum that the holes go through the engine cases and can allow engine oil to seep into primary if not sealed. A tube of ATV should fix you up.