So I do half the test and it appears that it passed. So I guess I need to do the next half. Parasitic drain? So I couldn't help myself and it was finally running so I went for a 30 minute ride. It ran perfectly. I have to say. Whenever I feel I don't need this bike because I have a mean *** Suzuki M109R, taking a ride on this bike really shows the differences between the 2. The 109R will never be a cruiser in the same sense the EG is so I have to keep both. Oddly enough the EG handles better. I am more comfortable on it.

So getting back to the bike. When I returned I wanted to test the volts again without shutting the bike off. As soon as I pull the seat off the bike it shuts off. To my surprise the bike fires up right away several times. So I check the volts at idle and it is 14.2 and with the bike off at 13.0. I wish I would have rolled to 2500 RPMS and tested but I forgot. The battery is still in the bike. I will check it in the morning. In one of my previous I mentioned that after a ride on the new battery the bike would be dead. Remember my wires to the tour pack that was removed are wrapped under the seat. Why would just pulling the seat off kill the bike? Loose wire somewhere? Short?

 

Two of my bikes have aftermarket alarms/isolators and they include sensors on the seat. In my case removing the seat, without disarming, would set the alarm off, however turn your seat over and see if you have a small device stuck to it, plus a similar one on the frame close-by. Just a possibility!

Failing that you could indeed have a poor connector that gets disturbed by removing the seat.

 

I think it is a one off seat. I went out side to check voltage on the battery after being left all night still hooked up to the bike. 12.7 and she fired right up twice. So while I am happy that it appears I do not need to replace stator/regulator I am a bit confused as to what the problem is. Taking that seat off and having the bike shut off has me thinking in that area. HD when they removed the tour pack cut a red and blue wire and did not tape them up or the tape came off. Plus there is a large metal plug under the seat now exposed. I took a pic. I suppose the very tips of the red and blue wire could have been touching metal causing the bike to drain the battery. Or I wonder if leaving the power on the radio was draining the battery. I made sure I turned it off with the power button last night just in case. Bike seemed totally fine today as if none of this ever happened. Tonight I will start it up and just move some of the wires around to see if I can locate why the bike shut off when I removed the seat. I thought since the seat was a one off it could be the problem but I have been using that seat long before all this started happening.

 

Here is the pic I took. Anything stand out? You can see the plug right in the middle and the red/blue wire to the top by the frame.

 

from the picture it has had water on the top of the frame and rust silt is around everything =

basic stuff take out the battery and clean // everything /// and tie away all loose wiring

use a permatex makes a bulb grease and that can be used on all the internal conections to insure they stay working as should --

also take off the side panels and do the same thing spend the Day its cheaper than a tow home - clean everything and re fit all that is loose wire tyes or what ever NO metal clamps they cut the wires over time -- jz

 

Going to do all of this. Hopefully today or at least get started. I bought some packets of bulb grease by AGS. They didn't have permatex. Never used this stuff before. I assume a light coating on the interior of all connections? And I am quessing this stuff does not inhibit the signal from the connections?

 

Excited to go clean her up and hoping for a ride later. Dead lol!!!!! Battery still shows 95% charge and takes only minutes to get it back to 100% so that is good. Now I guess I am going out to do the second part of the charging test. All the lights come on when I turn the ignition on but it does noting when flip the handlebar button on. It does not cycle through the start up procedure. I did notice yesterday that when flipping on that switch there was a delay before it would cycle.

 

So I know it is better to let people think I am a moron then to say something and remove all doubt lol!! But I can't help myself. I am eager to learn and what may appear to be a stupid question to you all really helps me. So the stator plug is the 2 wire plug on the right. How hard is it to get off? I pulled pretty good but I thought I would ask first before I damage it. Also the further I get into this I am really starting to suspect the off/run switch is bad. I went back out this afternoon and the lights are not coming on except for the light on the speedo and the bottom fender running light. Battery good.

 

Stator plug comes out from inside the primary, you can't pull it from outside. The connections to your regulator are in the plastic box affair under the regulator at the front of the frame.

My 2 cents is that you have an intermittent earth (ground) problem. Go over all your earth points or the old trick of turning ign on and grabbing a wire and wiggling it to see if things go on or off.

 

Yes it is starting to look like that. Makes sense as it seems I am plagued by it or nothing at all. On a side note you mention the stator connection. I watched a video on Youtube that was several videos long and showed how to remove and install a new stator. My fears were greatly reduced after watching that video. I have done plenty of repair work myself and if I have a video or good directions have had good results. I can do the job but I just may not understand the science as to why. But in this video it was a 95 Soft Tail and when he installed the stator he pushed a plug through that hole so I assumed something plugged in to it. Are the touring bikes different?