Front Wheel Bearings '96 RK
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
I'm not saying don't buy the manual...I am saying don't reply with "Buy the factory manual" without any other input. I packed in using an OMC Outboard Motor forum a while back because 90% of the answers would be simply "Buy the Factory Manual".
If I was to suggest that somebody checked their tyre pressures I would give them a figure to use....
Yes, you can buy the manual, it will even tell you which oil to use (but not which cup holder) but some people don't read them things too well and we can make it simpler for them on here.
If we assume that anybody can buy the manual and put that part of our responses to one side, then the poster won't have to read quite so many replies in order to get to the information he requested.
How about our collective New Years Resolution is to not say "Buy the Factory Manual"???
Usually my New Year's Resolution is to quit smoking....which I did years ago and so its easy to keep....
If I was to suggest that somebody checked their tyre pressures I would give them a figure to use....
Yes, you can buy the manual, it will even tell you which oil to use (but not which cup holder) but some people don't read them things too well and we can make it simpler for them on here.
If we assume that anybody can buy the manual and put that part of our responses to one side, then the poster won't have to read quite so many replies in order to get to the information he requested.
How about our collective New Years Resolution is to not say "Buy the Factory Manual"???
Usually my New Year's Resolution is to quit smoking....which I did years ago and so its easy to keep....
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
Spanners I think Graham said it best.
While I agree that RTM or RTFM is kinda useless information and someone shouldn't use it without a quick synopsis to answer what ever question was asked I don't really see the point of going over information that is readily available in the manual.
While I agree that RTM or RTFM is kinda useless information and someone shouldn't use it without a quick synopsis to answer what ever question was asked I don't really see the point of going over information that is readily available in the manual.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,180
Likes: 12,755
From: South Carolina
Only illegal copies are online...
Spend the money and buy a legitimate copy from a dealer.
Spend the money and buy a legitimate copy from a dealer.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
You and I (and PMD and Kees) know how good this place can be when relationships are built on sharing and trust.....its the hippy in me I know but I don't think we should be the manual police....otherwise it might just as well be the Touring Forum
....now, where is my cupholder.......
I have a factory manual only because I got it cheap....Hearing the information from a fellow motosicklest is easier than to reading the manual which in most cases is worded for trained mechanics. Also schools wouldn't need teachers and University's wouldn't need lecturers if they told the students to go read the text books on the bookcase in the classroom don't you think ?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,590
Likes: 444
From: Ohio
Dont get me wrong, I believe ACAB, especially in a forum.
A manual is a perfect compliment to online help, even here in the EVO forum with it's cast of valuable contributors.
I have dividends paying off from my investments in the '60s, so I need all the help I can get.
A manual is a perfect compliment to online help, even here in the EVO forum with it's cast of valuable contributors.
I have dividends paying off from my investments in the '60s, so I need all the help I can get.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
...Because some people may need an answer quicker than they can get their hands on a manual...if we start to censor the info we give out, or make people feel like dicks for asking then we may as well not have a forum.
You and I (and PMD and Kees) know how good this place can be when relationships are built on sharing and trust.....its the hippy in me I know but I don't think we should be the manual police....otherwise it might just as well be the Touring Forum
....now, where is my cupholder.......
You and I (and PMD and Kees) know how good this place can be when relationships are built on sharing and trust.....its the hippy in me I know but I don't think we should be the manual police....otherwise it might just as well be the Touring Forum
....now, where is my cupholder.......
I can't count how much money I have saved with mine.
I have never understood why people complain about the cost of a manual when almost everything else they put on their bikes costs so much more.
Most of the questions in here are information that is not included in the manual (especially TD's love affair with seafoam).
I do however agree with you that if all you want to add to a discussion is RTM then you shouldn't post as that is singularly useless.
As for the Touring section --- Where do you put your gas cap when filling up????
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
I have a factory manual only because I got it cheap....Hearing the information from a fellow motosicklest is easier than to reading the manual which in most cases is worded for trained mechanics. Also schools wouldn't need teachers and University's wouldn't need lecturers if they told the students to go read the text books on the bookcase in the classroom don't you think ?
I also agree with you about the wording of the manual.
I have had classes where reading the book is all we got for instruction.
(Yeah that sucked)
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Joe Kucinski
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 103
From: St. Louis, MO
Service manual just in case your wheel may be different then this generic info.
Torque wrench.
Dial indicator.
Necessary axle shims in .002 inch, .004 inch, .008 inch, .016 inch and .032 inch.
Wheel bearing grease. (See note 1)
Axle nut torque can affect end play by up to .004 inch.
Do not repack the wheel bearing before checking end play.
Torque the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench after reinstalling the wheel bearings, axle and spacers.
Mount a magnetic dial indicator on the front fender, forks or brake caliper so you can measure the lateral movement of the axle in the wheel.
Push and pull the wheel along the lateral axis of the axle while reading the measurements on the dial indicator. If the end play is greater than .018 inches the wheel bearing must be shimmed.
Remove the axle nut, axle, spacer and wheel bearing assembly with a socket wrench and socket if necessary. Insert an axle shim of one of the five commonly available thickness, between .002 and .032 inches, on the axle next to the spacer if necessary and replace the wheel bearing assembly.
Re-tighten the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench.
Re-measure the axle end play with the magnetic dial indicator. Repeat as necessary. Repack the wheel bearings with grease and continue wheel assembly when the end play measures between .004 and .018 inches.
Note 1. Always clean bearing in mineral sprits and dry. Then put a walnut size ball of grease on a rubber gloved hand. Then using a pressing motion, walk the bearing around making sure it is completely filled with grease. Then carefully put no more then a pencil diameter snake of grease on the face that goes into the hub. Do not over pack.
Torque wrench.
Dial indicator.
Necessary axle shims in .002 inch, .004 inch, .008 inch, .016 inch and .032 inch.
Wheel bearing grease. (See note 1)
Axle nut torque can affect end play by up to .004 inch.
Do not repack the wheel bearing before checking end play.
Torque the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench after reinstalling the wheel bearings, axle and spacers.
Mount a magnetic dial indicator on the front fender, forks or brake caliper so you can measure the lateral movement of the axle in the wheel.
Push and pull the wheel along the lateral axis of the axle while reading the measurements on the dial indicator. If the end play is greater than .018 inches the wheel bearing must be shimmed.
Remove the axle nut, axle, spacer and wheel bearing assembly with a socket wrench and socket if necessary. Insert an axle shim of one of the five commonly available thickness, between .002 and .032 inches, on the axle next to the spacer if necessary and replace the wheel bearing assembly.
Re-tighten the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench.
Re-measure the axle end play with the magnetic dial indicator. Repeat as necessary. Repack the wheel bearings with grease and continue wheel assembly when the end play measures between .004 and .018 inches.
Note 1. Always clean bearing in mineral sprits and dry. Then put a walnut size ball of grease on a rubber gloved hand. Then using a pressing motion, walk the bearing around making sure it is completely filled with grease. Then carefully put no more then a pencil diameter snake of grease on the face that goes into the hub. Do not over pack.
I have two things to add from my experience in packing my wheel bearings.
1. I found it easier to take off the calipers rather than trying to fight the two discs back in. Plus by taking them off I could check the wheel end play alone w/o the brake drag and I could check the pad condition.
2. Be sure and tighten the main nut to spec before you tighten the two small nuts on the right fork end cap.
Good luck and don't hesitate to post up questions...this Evo section is chock full of smart guys like Spanners and GRBrown who are quick to help. I've already learned a ton from them.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 404
From: SE,GA
Thanks for all the replies. Ive been around bikes a while and Usually spanners and the like have already answered the posed question. I pulled the wheel today and found a lot of play in the bearings. Looks like my wheel is shot. I have pics and a video I will try to load up on Monday.
I understand the "get the manual " and agree it is helpful. I will get it figured out. Thanks
I understand the "get the manual " and agree it is helpful. I will get it figured out. Thanks