Wheel bearing questions
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Outstanding HDF Member
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I bought it like this one side had dark green grease other was black. Had a lot of end play which is why I pulled it apart. These are shot right?
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Haslet Texas
It isn't a bad idea to change the bearings and races just to be sure.
Piece of mind is worth a lot.
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From: Honah Lee
You did read in the other post that it can be .004 and .018 inches in and out motion. What was a lot to you?
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It was clunking while bolted together I could rock it and make the wheel tilt. Didn't measure the play just bought the dial gauge today. I was expecting the bearings to be in pieces
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From: Honah Lee
I would shoot for .004 total end play. The .018 in and out would probably give you movement out at the tire to make it do what you described. Obviously, it was not hurting the bearings and they had plenty of grease. The race looks fine. Not sure if it's just your picture or is that touches of corrosion pitting on the rollers?
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Apr 1, 2014 at 06:57 AM.
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Dirt don't hurt
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From: Haslet Texas
Your bearings are shot.
Replace them.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Styxville
It's easy to overthink the whole wheel bearing thing.
No need for special tools if you have a heat gun or propane torch. Just heat the hub up and the outer race will just about fall out. Bit of gentle persuasion with a long drift rod or even just a poke with a screw driver will take them out if the hub is spit-sizzlin' hot (212F without a heat sensor gun).
No need for dial gauges to set end float. Taper bearings last longest with zero clearance to a VERY slight preload. That is the way everyone else in the world sets them except Harley.
You set the shimming so that with the axle nut torqued to correct spec, there is no noticeable drag when spinning the wheel and no discernible shake at the rim.
You can do this in the vise with appropriate spacers, or in the bike with the brake pads pushed back so they don't drag.
I've been doing them this way for years without problem, on HDs and BMWs.
Another important thing is to put new seals in every time the old ones are removed. Will stop the next set from getting gritted or washed out.
If the grease is changed every tire change, (and so new seals too) and preload is kept at spec, these bearings will last forever. I think HD specs a loose fit because it is safer to be a bit loose than a bit too tight preload as mileage drops off rapidly if preload is overdone.
No need for special tools if you have a heat gun or propane torch. Just heat the hub up and the outer race will just about fall out. Bit of gentle persuasion with a long drift rod or even just a poke with a screw driver will take them out if the hub is spit-sizzlin' hot (212F without a heat sensor gun).
No need for dial gauges to set end float. Taper bearings last longest with zero clearance to a VERY slight preload. That is the way everyone else in the world sets them except Harley.
You set the shimming so that with the axle nut torqued to correct spec, there is no noticeable drag when spinning the wheel and no discernible shake at the rim.
You can do this in the vise with appropriate spacers, or in the bike with the brake pads pushed back so they don't drag.
I've been doing them this way for years without problem, on HDs and BMWs.
Another important thing is to put new seals in every time the old ones are removed. Will stop the next set from getting gritted or washed out.
If the grease is changed every tire change, (and so new seals too) and preload is kept at spec, these bearings will last forever. I think HD specs a loose fit because it is safer to be a bit loose than a bit too tight preload as mileage drops off rapidly if preload is overdone.
