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Loud ticking from front cylinder

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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 11:05 AM
  #1  
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Default Loud ticking from front cylinder

Ok, before I posted this I have checked every related 'harley ticking noise' post on the web and still haven't found the answer. I have a loud metallic ticking noise coming from the front cylinder of my 40k mile 1996 FLHRI. It is really loud at idle and at low revs when the bike is cold. Once the bike is warmed up it pretty much disappears except if I let the revs drop low then the ticking can be hear quite clearly again.

I have tried everything short of stripping the barrels off the bike and now wishing I had do so to check for piston slap or play in the conrod.

I have replaced all 4 lifters with S&S items, replaced the rockers with S&S roller rockers, and fitted Andrew adjustable pushrods, all in the attempt to resolve this problem. My cam and cam bearing was replaced a year ago.

Still have the same loud tick coming from the front piston. I am running out of ideas here? Could this be piston slap? Or a worn conrod bearing?

The bike is running great, burns no old, plugs are the right colour, no noticeable smoke from the engine. Just this loud ticking which is driving me nuts! Any ideas?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 11:56 AM
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Sometimes a leaking head gasket can sound like ticking. As it warms up it tightens up when things expand. That is the only thing I can think of off hand. The only other simple thing would be if one of the pushrod adjustments has come loose.Oh, one other thing. Some of the adjustable pushrods can be slghtly bent and will hit on the pushrod cover making a ticking sound.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 12:20 PM
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Did you check all the exhaust heat shields? These will drive you nuts if they're loose or the clamp breaks.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 02:02 PM
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yea i think you miissed it when you did not remove the barrels - the 96 / 97 motors in those did have issues with connecting rod side to side clearances, But never heard any noizes from that except the pistons were not able to move around like they normaly do

the rods were frozen in one location and did not float back and forth ( left to right ) they the pistons only rock front to back so what happens the piston stands still in the bore and wears funny as a result it does noit hve a full float in the cylinder bore --

you need to check all of the specs to confirm that issue
 
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 02:37 PM
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Hey John; They must have not given the wrist pin bushing enough clearance on those. The wristpin must just be rotating in the piston. I just checked my 99 manual and it says to replace either the piston or the rod bushing if over .001" clearance. That seems pretty tight but I suppose they both expand with heat.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Kraft
Hey John; They must have not given the wrist pin bushing enough clearance on those. The wristpin must just be rotating in the piston. I just checked my 99 manual and it says to replace either the piston or the rod bushing if over .001" clearance. That seems pretty tight but I suppose they both expand with heat.
Jim as you know a full floating wrist pin does just that - depending on the use we have set pins at the click, so loose that sliding it the pin back and forth in the piston will give off a clicking sound, what happened in his case is the rods / bearings are set so tight right from harley they are frozen in place on the flywheels crankpin, you cant slide the rod in the wheels back and forth as you might do to check its end side to side play

and when a normal engine is running everything finds a home in all the clearances and will float around in those clearances depending on temps and RPMs - that issue with the rods keeps the piston in only one location and it wears as a result different than a normal motor in the bores, we have found it will wear in a spot you never see in a regular motor, and once the rollers in the lower unit start to wear is when the piston starts making noize
 
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 05:41 PM
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what cam are running a higher than stock lift will cause the rockers to hit the covers. or
are you getting good oil pressure to both front lifters. a bad lifter block or pluged oil passage or dirty oil screen will not keep the lifters pumped up at idle and the rockers will chatter.

also when you installed the rockers did you check the clearance on the rocker pins to the rocker plate if the plate is damaged it will chatter
 

Last edited by D_gyver; Jul 6, 2014 at 05:52 PM.
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 06:04 PM
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Thanks for the explanation John. I always learn something new on here.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 06:30 PM
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Default noise

Originally Posted by grantuk
Ok, before I posted this I have checked every related 'harley ticking noise' post on the web and still haven't found the answer. I have a loud metallic ticking noise coming from the front cylinder of my 40k mile 1996 FLHRI. It is really loud at idle and at low revs when the bike is cold. Once the bike is warmed up it pretty much disappears except if I let the revs drop low then the ticking can be hear quite clearly again.

I have tried everything short of stripping the barrels off the bike and now wishing I had do so to check for piston slap or play in the conrod.

I have replaced all 4 lifters with S&S items, replaced the rockers with S&S roller rockers, and fitted Andrew adjustable pushrods, all in the attempt to resolve this problem. My cam and cam bearing was replaced a year ago.

Still have the same loud tick coming from the front piston. I am running out of ideas here? Could this be piston slap? Or a worn conrod bearing?

The bike is running great, burns no old, plugs are the right colour, no noticeable smoke from the engine. Just this loud ticking which is driving me nuts! Any ideas?
Sounds like you have done everything possible .
I would now try to determine the exact location of the noise to help with the cause . You say the noise is pronounced at idle so you can test with the bike on stand at idle .
Purchase a " mechanics stethescope " with all attachments at any auto parts shop for approx. $20.00.
Let bike idle and search for the location of the noise with the stethescope .
Take your time ! Follow the directions that came with the tool as it takes time for your ears to assimilate etc.
When you find the location of the noise , let us know and we can procede from there.
 
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