Wheel Spacer Question
As I said it is a different procedure in my '95 HD manual.
You can accomplish the same thing with a screwdriver as you can with a drill bit and a screw driver has no sharp edges.
I just checked a '91 manual and it doesn't have the drill bit either.
So that means they changed sometime between '85 and '91.
I am still curious as to when they changed the procedure in the manuals.
Mine looks just like that, and always has, no matter how many times I've had the wheel on and off (dozens of times now).
The right hand end of the axle is larger in diameter than the part that passes thru the spacer and the wheel.
The right hand end of the axle is larger in diameter than the part that passes thru the spacer and the wheel.
Thanks again for the input. I did tighten the axle to 55 ft-lbs while holding the other end with a screwdriver (That is what my SM says to use). Then I tightened the pinch bolts. It seems to be OK. Rode out to the beach yesterday, and she tracked well.
Screwdriver, big nail, bolt or maybe even a sharp stick will work. If you have Godzilla hands, that will also work. MOCO must have got a good deal on (or ordered in error) thousands of drill bits and wanted to sell them as "special tools". It's a wonder they did not find a way to incorporate the bits inside the engine under three covers that had to be removed (including the exhaust) as a part of some sort.
Doesn't matter what you use or what it looks like....within reason. The right side should not be tightened (pinch-bolts) until the axle nut has been torqued. Assuming one has the spacers installed in the right place (spacer is also meant to be used in the same terms as the mechanical speedo sending unit on the left side if so equipped).....the right fork will "find itself" on the axle....then tighten the pinch bolts leaving an equal amount of space on either side of the cap. If one tightens the pinch-bolts on the right side first, then torques the axle nut, the forks can be warped inward.
As you stand in front of the scooter....do the right (nut side) first 50-55 pounds, then the cap-screws on the left side.
As you stand in front of the scooter....do the right (nut side) first 50-55 pounds, then the cap-screws on the left side.
Doesn't matter what you use or what it looks like....within reason. The right side should not be tightened (pinch-bolts) until the axle nut has been torqued. Assuming one has the spacers installed in the right place (spacer is also meant to be used in the same terms as the mechanical speedo sending unit on the left side if so equipped).....the right fork will "find itself" on the axle....then tighten the pinch bolts leaving an equal amount of space on either side of the cap. If one tightens the pinch-bolts on the right side first, then torques the axle nut, the forks can be warped inward.
As you stand in front of the scooter....do the right (nut side) first 50-55 pounds, then the cap-screws on the left side.
As you stand in front of the scooter....do the right (nut side) first 50-55 pounds, then the cap-screws on the left side.
If you do that the fork will shift back out and be fine.
But I'm with you. It is easier to stick a screw driver in the hole and only tighten the cap nuts once.
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