Wheel Spacer Question

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Jul 13, 2014 | 10:05 PM

#11

texashillcountry

Dirt don't hurt

Joined: Jan 2011

Posts: 21,065

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From: Haslet Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kabear

The method described me is in my 1985 HD manual.

So I would ***-u-me that the procedure was around in 1985!

I was never doubting that it is in the earlier manuals.

As I said it is a different procedure in my '95 HD manual.

You can accomplish the same thing with a screwdriver as you can with a drill bit and a screw driver has no sharp edges.

I just checked a '91 manual and it doesn't have the drill bit either.
So that means they changed sometime between '85 and '91.

I am still curious as to when they changed the procedure in the manuals.

Jul 13, 2014 | 10:44 PM

#12

cowboy 51

Road Master

Joined: Nov 2012

Posts: 794

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From: Alvin TX

I don't think I would grab a drill bit either ,I've always used a screw driver , don't care what any book says

Jul 14, 2014 | 07:25 AM

#13

Uncle G.

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Jun 2010

Posts: 9,332

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From: Upstate New York

Mine looks just like that, and always has, no matter how many times I've had the wheel on and off (dozens of times now).

The right hand end of the axle is larger in diameter than the part that passes thru the spacer and the wheel.

Jul 14, 2014 | 08:15 AM

#14

larsfum

Thread Starter

Stellar HDF Member

Joined: Jan 2009

Posts: 2,578

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From: On a Lake, not far from the Gulf

Thanks again for the input. I did tighten the axle to 55 ft-lbs while holding the other end with a screwdriver (That is what my SM says to use). Then I tightened the pinch bolts. It seems to be OK. Rode out to the beach yesterday, and she tracked well.

Jul 19, 2014 | 06:26 PM

#15

0734

Road Warrior

Joined: Dec 2008

Posts: 1,476

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From: Summit, Mississippi

Screwdriver, big nail, bolt or maybe even a sharp stick will work. If you have Godzilla hands, that will also work. MOCO must have got a good deal on (or ordered in error) thousands of drill bits and wanted to sell them as "special tools". It's a wonder they did not find a way to incorporate the bits inside the engine under three covers that had to be removed (including the exhaust) as a part of some sort.

Jul 20, 2014 | 08:19 AM

#16

junglejoe

Road Master

Joined: Jun 2012

Posts: 1,088

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From: Mo

Went and looked at mine, it is NOTHING like that! The spacers are flat against the forks

Jul 20, 2014 | 08:45 AM

#17

0734

Road Warrior

Joined: Dec 2008

Posts: 1,476

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From: Summit, Mississippi

Doesn't matter what you use or what it looks like....within reason. The right side should not be tightened (pinch-bolts) until the axle nut has been torqued. Assuming one has the spacers installed in the right place (spacer is also meant to be used in the same terms as the mechanical speedo sending unit on the left side if so equipped).....the right fork will "find itself" on the axle....then tighten the pinch bolts leaving an equal amount of space on either side of the cap. If one tightens the pinch-bolts on the right side first, then torques the axle nut, the forks can be warped inward.

As you stand in front of the scooter....do the right (nut side) first 50-55 pounds, then the cap-screws on the left side.

Jul 20, 2014 | 12:08 PM

#18

texashillcountry

Dirt don't hurt

Joined: Jan 2011

Posts: 21,065

Likes: 4,561

From: Haslet Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by 0734

Doesn't matter what you use or what it looks like....within reason. The right side should not be tightened (pinch-bolts) until the axle nut has been torqued. Assuming one has the spacers installed in the right place (spacer is also meant to be used in the same terms as the mechanical speedo sending unit on the left side if so equipped).....the right fork will "find itself" on the axle....then tighten the pinch bolts leaving an equal amount of space on either side of the cap. If one tightens the pinch-bolts on the right side first, then torques the axle nut, the forks can be warped inward.

As you stand in front of the scooter....do the right (nut side) first 50-55 pounds, then the cap-screws on the left side.

This is the reason my manual says loosen and re-tighten the cap nuts after tightening the axle nut.

If you do that the fork will shift back out and be fine.

But I'm with you. It is easier to stick a screw driver in the hole and only tighten the cap nuts once.