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Evo motor swap?

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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 08:27 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
Why are you putting in adjustable pushrods?
I don't think stock rods will work with many aftermarket cams. When I was looking into Wood cams he said not to use the stock pushrods.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 08:33 PM
  #12  
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Stock rods working just fine with my evl3010. I believe that is only recommended if you're getting into high lift cams. Can't adjust the valves on an evo like a 350 chevy, so that only leaves one option... adjustable pushrods.
 

Last edited by tmanbuckhunter; Jul 14, 2014 at 08:35 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 08:57 PM
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That's the way I understand it tman.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 07:46 AM
  #14  
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Thanks for all the feedback, it's much appreciated.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 08:54 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Tee⋁12986892
I don't think stock rods will work with many aftermarket cams. When I was looking into Wood cams he said not to use the stock pushrods.
Stock pushrods will work with aftermarket cams, as long as they have the same base circle (I dont know of any of the shelf cams that are not the same base circle as stock).
 
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
Stock pushrods will work with aftermarket cams, as long as they have the same base circle (I dont know of any of the shelf cams that are not the same base circle as stock).
there is a lot of cams out there that use a smaller base circle to achieve the high lift. I could be wrong on the number but I think its around .570 lift is most you can get with a stock base circle without buying new lifter blocks or grinding them out to get clearance for the lifter rollers. and somewhere around .545 lift you need to clearance the cam chest.

and on the pushrods there is a lot of factors you need to know before you decide you need adjustable push rods. IMO the stock pushrod are the best way to go. BUT sometimes stock just wont work right.

If you shave the heads you will need shorter pushrods
If you use shorter head gaskets you will need shorter pushrods
If you shorten the cylinders to correct deck height you will need shorter push rods
If your cam has a smaller base circle you will need longer push rods
If you use S&S HL2T kits in your lifters you will definitely need adjustable push rods

hydraulic lifters have an optimum set point to make sure the proper amount of oil makes it to the heads and the lifters stay primed. .100 +/- .020

So if you take .035 off the heads and .005 off of the cylinders and use .030 head gaskets you have shortened the motor by .055 if you use stock pushrods your lifters are now .045 away from collapsing. not to mention cutting you oil flow to the rockers in half. and thats assuming the lifters were set perfect to begin with.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 07:09 PM
  #17  
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The 1985 Evo is a case breather, the 1998 is a head breather. Easy to work around. I just switched cases went from 1984-91 to 1992-99. My 89 case had 2 small cracks at the oil sending hole, behind back tappet block. Check the case real good, for cracks
 
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Old Jul 18, 2014 | 07:46 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by D_gyver
there is a lot of cams out there that use a smaller base circle to achieve the high lift.
I should have worded that to say "Bolt in Cam", rather than "off the shelf".

Agreed that when any type of machining is done to change the height of the cylinder/head stack up height, the pushrod length may need to change.

I prefer a solid pushrod over an adjustable in any application, even if it means a custom length pushrod.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 10:19 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by upland117
I am looking at picking up a spare early Evo motor for my 1998 Softail to tinker around on. It is a 1985 with no primary or tranny. Will I be able to bolt my 1998 primary and tranny to it or will I have issues? Thanks a lot.
I have a 1996 1340 stock I will sell you
 
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