starter grind
heh, yea tell me about it. perhaps its a model-year-change? no idea. 98 was a transition....new clutch basket, different inner/outer primaries (gaskets a diff P/N, changed shape a tad), updated 5speed IIRC (something internal)
the starter stuff is all OEM
starter to jackshaft coupler goes in with the taper towards the starter
the coupler between the jackshaft and pinion goes in with the short end of the cir clip facing the starter.
as far as I can tell everything is as its supposed to be.
the spacers will move the whole coupler (that slides into the machined hole in the inner primary) out from sitting just flush, to sitting 1/4" proud of the inner. hopefully that won't cause any issues, cause its the only fix i can think of at this point.
and judging by the lack of replies, I'm not sure anyone else has come across this either.
the starter stuff is all OEM
starter to jackshaft coupler goes in with the taper towards the starter
the coupler between the jackshaft and pinion goes in with the short end of the cir clip facing the starter.
as far as I can tell everything is as its supposed to be.
the spacers will move the whole coupler (that slides into the machined hole in the inner primary) out from sitting just flush, to sitting 1/4" proud of the inner. hopefully that won't cause any issues, cause its the only fix i can think of at this point.
and judging by the lack of replies, I'm not sure anyone else has come across this either.
Ya, your all over it, just checking the base. How do you get yourself into these odd situations?
FIGURED IT OUT!!!!
15 minutes on the phone with bandit, because even with a spacer, something didnt sit well about all this with me. lets face it, even with all that ive done to this bike, the primary chaincase/transmission are essentially stock as far as clearances go.
for reference, Bandit does NOT list anywhere in their instructions that their clutch hub is actually 0.300" LONGER than a stock hub....it's machined to do the same thing the S&S IPB race does (and the S&S ipb is ~ .300" longer than a stocker)
it became VERY obvious when I measured the snap ring groove on the stock hub vs. the bandit....and because I'm already running the S&S ipb race, it actually held the clutch basket out ~ 0.250" further than the stocker (which also fixes my 0.360" air gap on the starter pinion gear
stock hub. note orientation of snap ring groove

bandit hub, installed in basket already, but you can see the location of the snap ring/groove

HUGE thanks to the guys @ Bandit. this is something that NEVER crossed mine, or anyone elses minds (and never came up in searches either!)
15 minutes on the phone with bandit, because even with a spacer, something didnt sit well about all this with me. lets face it, even with all that ive done to this bike, the primary chaincase/transmission are essentially stock as far as clearances go.
for reference, Bandit does NOT list anywhere in their instructions that their clutch hub is actually 0.300" LONGER than a stock hub....it's machined to do the same thing the S&S IPB race does (and the S&S ipb is ~ .300" longer than a stocker)
it became VERY obvious when I measured the snap ring groove on the stock hub vs. the bandit....and because I'm already running the S&S ipb race, it actually held the clutch basket out ~ 0.250" further than the stocker (which also fixes my 0.360" air gap on the starter pinion gear
stock hub. note orientation of snap ring groove

bandit hub, installed in basket already, but you can see the location of the snap ring/groove

HUGE thanks to the guys @ Bandit. this is something that NEVER crossed mine, or anyone elses minds (and never came up in searches either!)
You would think they would have mentioned that in the installation instructions along with a spacer to adjust your starter drive gear.
I find it hard to believe this is the first time this happened.
I find it hard to believe this is the first time this happened.
thats the thing, the spacer is unnecessary!
Bandit plans installation for a stock setup....why I have no idea....because 99% of the time if you're installing a Bandit its because nothing else will hold the torque you're putting down.
their hub is machined to do the same thing the S&S IPB does...IE it's 0.300" longer and designed to better support itself on the mainshaft by extending down past the splines.....kinda like the S&S IPB aside from being a better/tighter fit extends all the way to the splines...making it nearly impossible to walk/spin on the mainshaft.
its (once again in my case) just a matter of 2 parts that works VERY well, but cant work well together.













