EVO Masters Please Help.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 103
From: St. Louis, MO
I suggest you clean out your ignition switch. I had your problem on two bikes and cleaning out the ignition switch worked both times. It's super easy to do, all you need is a snap ring plier, ½ wrench to remove the console and 10 minutes. Common problem, and free to fix.
Gordon (GTMalone) on the Heritage Springer forum did a great how-to with pics if you are interested:
Gordon (GTMalone) on the Heritage Springer forum did a great how-to with pics if you are interested:
Originally Posted by gtmalone
HSOA TECH TIPS
ELECTRICAL
DOCUMENT CHANGE HISTORY:
date ---------- changed by --------------- recap of changes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11/26/2011 -------- gtmalone #2056 ----------- document created
KEYWORDS AND KEY PHRASES
Ignition - switch - connector
runs rough - will not start - speedometer doesn’t work - tachometer doesn’t work - power failure
APPLICABLE YEAR/MODEL
1997-1999 Evo
2000-2003 TwinCam
1. TECHNICAL AREAS ADDRESSED
1.1 - Intermittent electrical problems can be caused by either a bad terminal connection on the ignition switch or a bad contact inside the ignition switch. Symptoms you may experience are as follows:
- runs rough or will not start
- speedometer, odometer and tachometer (factory) are not working
- various lighting circuits are not working
- complete power failure
2. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE
2.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.
2.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank. Disconnect all plugs and remove the trip reset switch from the console.
2.4 - Remove the ignition switch from the console.
2.5 - Remove the circlip from the back side of the ignition switch.
2.6 - Remove the plastic contactor ring from the switch. Be sure to capture the 3 springs and 3 contacts from inside the switch. See Figure 1.
2.7 - Pull the key lock assembly from the switch housing.
2.8 - Wipe the old grease from the switch housing. Clean the switch contacts and the switch terminals with fine sand paper. Wipe sand paper residue from the switch housing. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the internal contact areas. See Figure 2.
2.9 - Reassemble the contactor ring, contact springs and contacts. Apply a small amount of grease to the contacts. See Figure 3.
2.10 - Reassemble the ignition switch. Insert the key lock assembly into the switch housing. It will only fit one way. Make note of the positions of the contacts on the contactor ring. The two contacts close together go next to the switch terminals. Reinstall the contactor ring onto the switch housing. See Figure 4.
NOTE: This will be easier if you hold the switch housing in a mostly key side up position and reinstall the contactor ring from the bottom.
2.11 - Reinstall the ignition switch into the console.
At this point it is recommended to perform the steps in Section 3 - 3.3 through 3.6.
2.12 - Reconnect all wiring to the console. Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.
2.13 - Reinstall the console on the bike.
ALL DONE!
3. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTOR SERVICE
3.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.
3.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank.
3.1 - Make a note of which color wire connects to each ignition switch terminal.
3.2 - Remove the connector from the ignition switch.
3.3 - Extract the 3 spade connectors from the connector housing. There is a small tab on the spade connectors. Insert a pick or small jewelers screwdriver into the housing to press down on the tab while pulling the spade connector from the housing.
NOTE: If the housing is melted you may have to use wire cutters to cut away the plastic from the connectors.
3.4 - Clean the inside of the spade connectors with a paper nail file cut down to fit inside of the connector. Clean the switch terminals with fine sand paper.
3.5 - Push each spade connector onto the ignition switch. If any of the connectors feel loose, LIGHTLY squeeze the loops on each connector to tighten the grip. They should be slightly difficult to push onto the terminals.
3.6a - If the connector housing is usable, reinsert the spade connectors into the housing making note of their original positions. You may have to bend the tab on the spade connector for it to catch in the housing. Push the connector onto the ignition switch. It will only fit one way.
3.6b - If the connector housing was melted beyond use, put a short length of heat shrink tubing over each spade connector and heat to shrink. Push the spade connectors onto the proper switch terminals. Put some sort of label inside the console as a reminder. See Figure 5.
3.7 - Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.
3.8 - Reinstall the console on the bike.
ALL DONE!
Links to figures:
IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE FIGURES
ELECTRICAL
DOCUMENT CHANGE HISTORY:
date ---------- changed by --------------- recap of changes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11/26/2011 -------- gtmalone #2056 ----------- document created
KEYWORDS AND KEY PHRASES
Ignition - switch - connector
runs rough - will not start - speedometer doesn’t work - tachometer doesn’t work - power failure
APPLICABLE YEAR/MODEL
1997-1999 Evo
2000-2003 TwinCam
1. TECHNICAL AREAS ADDRESSED
1.1 - Intermittent electrical problems can be caused by either a bad terminal connection on the ignition switch or a bad contact inside the ignition switch. Symptoms you may experience are as follows:
- runs rough or will not start
- speedometer, odometer and tachometer (factory) are not working
- various lighting circuits are not working
- complete power failure
2. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE
2.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.
2.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank. Disconnect all plugs and remove the trip reset switch from the console.
2.4 - Remove the ignition switch from the console.
2.5 - Remove the circlip from the back side of the ignition switch.
2.6 - Remove the plastic contactor ring from the switch. Be sure to capture the 3 springs and 3 contacts from inside the switch. See Figure 1.
2.7 - Pull the key lock assembly from the switch housing.
2.8 - Wipe the old grease from the switch housing. Clean the switch contacts and the switch terminals with fine sand paper. Wipe sand paper residue from the switch housing. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the internal contact areas. See Figure 2.
2.9 - Reassemble the contactor ring, contact springs and contacts. Apply a small amount of grease to the contacts. See Figure 3.
2.10 - Reassemble the ignition switch. Insert the key lock assembly into the switch housing. It will only fit one way. Make note of the positions of the contacts on the contactor ring. The two contacts close together go next to the switch terminals. Reinstall the contactor ring onto the switch housing. See Figure 4.
NOTE: This will be easier if you hold the switch housing in a mostly key side up position and reinstall the contactor ring from the bottom.
2.11 - Reinstall the ignition switch into the console.
At this point it is recommended to perform the steps in Section 3 - 3.3 through 3.6.
2.12 - Reconnect all wiring to the console. Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.
2.13 - Reinstall the console on the bike.
ALL DONE!
3. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTOR SERVICE
3.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.
3.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank.
3.1 - Make a note of which color wire connects to each ignition switch terminal.
3.2 - Remove the connector from the ignition switch.
3.3 - Extract the 3 spade connectors from the connector housing. There is a small tab on the spade connectors. Insert a pick or small jewelers screwdriver into the housing to press down on the tab while pulling the spade connector from the housing.
NOTE: If the housing is melted you may have to use wire cutters to cut away the plastic from the connectors.
3.4 - Clean the inside of the spade connectors with a paper nail file cut down to fit inside of the connector. Clean the switch terminals with fine sand paper.
3.5 - Push each spade connector onto the ignition switch. If any of the connectors feel loose, LIGHTLY squeeze the loops on each connector to tighten the grip. They should be slightly difficult to push onto the terminals.
3.6a - If the connector housing is usable, reinsert the spade connectors into the housing making note of their original positions. You may have to bend the tab on the spade connector for it to catch in the housing. Push the connector onto the ignition switch. It will only fit one way.
3.6b - If the connector housing was melted beyond use, put a short length of heat shrink tubing over each spade connector and heat to shrink. Push the spade connectors onto the proper switch terminals. Put some sort of label inside the console as a reminder. See Figure 5.
3.7 - Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.
3.8 - Reinstall the console on the bike.
ALL DONE!
Links to figures:
IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE FIGURES
Road Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 803
Likes: 3
From: Collegeville, PA
The prior owner probably had problems with the relay tripping and he thought he could outsmart it by putting in the 50A rather than diagnosing the problem correctly. When I bought my '86 FXRD a few years back the first major project I did to it was overhaul the electrical system. I went through the entire harness and cleaned all the contacts. Cleaned and put dielectric grease in all the connectors, and I replaced all the breakers with new ones. With the exception of the hand controls, it was an easy project and an enjoyable way to spend my down time in the winter. I found the breakers online and don't think the whole project cost me $50. Electrical isn't the big mystery some people make it out to be. Dirty or poor contacts = resistance = heat = problems.
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix AZ
Well I took her out today it was easily over 110 here, needless to say she ran great. I didn't hold back as I was looking to make it fail. I will take the time to totally go threw the electrical system. As desert bikes tend to take a beeting in the heat but needles to say I have almost 200,000 miles and only had a top end done twice. I'm very happy and can still give the 103's a run anyday. Thanks Dr Hess as once again I think you nailed it. Thanks for the ignition info and I will go through that also. As always the evo community is very helpful.
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