Logical Dyno after adding exhaust question
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Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Louisiana
Logical Dyno after adding exhaust question
if initial break in is <3000 RPM for 50 miles, then <4000 to 500 miles, how is it healthy to dyno a new bike, after adding exhaust / breather when adequate dyno readings taken pushing the motor hard up to redline?
Last edited by chasu99; Oct 16, 2018 at 09:34 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Bedford UK
In my own experience of having a new S&S engine installed, the shop I used followed the S&S approved running-in procedure first. The engine also had built-in settings which limited its revs during the early mileage, so couldn't be run to the re-line. So IMHO a competent dyno shop will follow a procedure to suit the engine. I later took mine back for a follow-up tune, when full revs could be used.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
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From: florida
The dyno is a tool that is used to make measurements and observe and record data under real time conditions. just because a bike goes on the dyno, does not mean that every "run" is a max pull to the red line. idle mixtures, part throttle acceleration, and temps can all be monitored and kept under control. used properly by a tech that knows his tool the dyno is a very good tool to break an engine in with.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Savannah, GA
I put a 98ci kit on my 88ci twin cam. Did cylinder heads, cams, pistons, pushrods, cam plate, oil pump, etc. Cranked it for the first time right before the dyno. Let it heat cycle a few times, and let it rip. Next day went on a 1200 mile weekend trip to a bike rally. Several burnouts, some wheelies, and a little bit of racing, were the first 500 miles on my new motor. Zero problems still to this day. Im not a believer in a 'X' amount of miles for a break in, and neither is my tuner.
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Calgary, Alberta
In the dirt bike world, this has been long debated. The "best" power is made when you light the fire and go for it. No heat cycles and no decel BS. This is the general consensus among the builders. How this affects longevity I don't know. And no synthetic oil for the first while, that helps things seat properly. I've been told that the slow breakin has more to do with catching small issues. A small failure isn't immediately catastrophic. Of course these are not dirt bikes, so one size may not fit all, as it were, but that's one side of the story at least. Personally it hurts me a bit to abuse a brand new engine, but I have no stomach for that. 
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Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Louisiana
I was misled. A mechanic told me that if I added exhaust, I would have to add a breather, tune, and dyno the bike. Ive since learned that was not all true. I have put 200 miles on the bike, all under 3000 rpm. Ive put another 30 miles under 4000 rpm. I dont ride more than 5 min at the same speed, varying 500 or so rpm. Some heavy acceleration, but shifting gears under the makeshift redline. Im not lagging the motor. Most riding/cruising is around 2000-2500 rpm. Im just using the <1000 mile riding to break it in properly. Im not going to Dyno the bike. Ill just add a set of TAB Long slip Ins with Zombie baffles and thats it. The 114 already comes with the right breather to achieve proper air flow intake. Im just reducing a little back pressure on the exhaust side. A Harley mech, and the TAB guy told me that Im not going to be far from stock tuning/programming by just adding slip ons behind the cats/sensors.
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