Latteral run out on roller rockers
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Former Sponsor
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,113
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From: Clinton, NC
Latteral run out on roller rockers
Ive a 1992 flhtp. I installed roller rockers in place of stock rockers. According to my manual. Maximum end play is .0022. I havent checked with feeler gauge yet. Will tonight. However,... the end play seems to be more like .004. Does anyone have a part number or where I can get washer type shims for placement over rocker shafts? Do they make these?
RJ
RJ
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2007
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From:
RE: Latteral run out on roller rockers
I'm betting the end play tolerance is more like .022. Harley rarely carries their tolerances out four places on an air cooled engine.... But Reid Supply has the shims.
From earlier post:
Found a good source for excellent steel shims for shimming the rockers back to spec. These are 5/8" ID and 1" OD so fit nicely.
Reid Supply Company is where I got these but they are also available from McMaster Carr and MSC. They are milling machine cutter shims and very good precision quality.
The Reid part numbers start with "PB 25123" for the .002" thick up to "PB 25131" for the .012". The price works out to 38 to 48 cents each depending on popularity of shim. They come 10 each so you'll have enough to share... anyone need some? I only used four - two .010 and two .012...
I have found that it is better not to 'stack' these shims since they are working shims, not static thickness adjusters....
From earlier post:
Found a good source for excellent steel shims for shimming the rockers back to spec. These are 5/8" ID and 1" OD so fit nicely.
Reid Supply Company is where I got these but they are also available from McMaster Carr and MSC. They are milling machine cutter shims and very good precision quality.
The Reid part numbers start with "PB 25123" for the .002" thick up to "PB 25131" for the .012". The price works out to 38 to 48 cents each depending on popularity of shim. They come 10 each so you'll have enough to share... anyone need some? I only used four - two .010 and two .012...
I have found that it is better not to 'stack' these shims since they are working shims, not static thickness adjusters....
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 683
Likes: 3
From: Florida
Is this rocker lateral end play issue mainly for older Shovels and Evos or does it occur on TCs also ?
Does the issue mainly just show up after installing a after market cam or does it also sometimes happen to an older OEM motor?
Does the issue mainly just show up after installing a after market cam or does it also sometimes happen to an older OEM motor?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,543
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From: Ashland Ohio
Don't do that! Those small of shims will get eaten alive by the rockers. I feel .010 is the thinnest I would install... on the NON thrust side.
Go to J&P and find shovelhead rocker shaft shims. Might as well run shims made for the application.
IMHO... shims are basically unnecessary. Been there, done that.
Go to J&P and find shovelhead rocker shaft shims. Might as well run shims made for the application.
IMHO... shims are basically unnecessary. Been there, done that.
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 683
Likes: 3
From: Florida
I've never put a cam in (a bike, have on cars) but read a good bit about these issues on this forum and Vtwin forum. I had one guy present an idea that I had not heard any about before. It sounded like it could have some solution on this. So I'm pasting the below.
[--One reason that a lot of guys get valve train noise after a cam change is because they neglect to center the rocker boxes and the rocker supports. I suspect this is where most "excessive end play" in the rockers comes from as well. You can do this easily with ferrules from copper compression fittings, available at any hardware store.
Find the right ferrule for the lower rocker box bolts and slide them on 2 of the bolts. Then lightly snug those bolts in so that the ferrules center the rocker box. Then add the other bolts and tighten them accordingly. Then remove the ferrules and finish tighten those 2 bolts. Follow the same procedure for the rocker supports.
Just for giggles, lay the lower rocker box in place and start the bolts. Then slide the rocker box around. It will move a LOT. The rocker supports have just as much slop in the bolt holes. If you don't "locate" the parts properly, either as I've outlined above or by some other method, the geometry can get bad out of whack in a hurry. --]
[--One reason that a lot of guys get valve train noise after a cam change is because they neglect to center the rocker boxes and the rocker supports. I suspect this is where most "excessive end play" in the rockers comes from as well. You can do this easily with ferrules from copper compression fittings, available at any hardware store.
Find the right ferrule for the lower rocker box bolts and slide them on 2 of the bolts. Then lightly snug those bolts in so that the ferrules center the rocker box. Then add the other bolts and tighten them accordingly. Then remove the ferrules and finish tighten those 2 bolts. Follow the same procedure for the rocker supports.
Just for giggles, lay the lower rocker box in place and start the bolts. Then slide the rocker box around. It will move a LOT. The rocker supports have just as much slop in the bolt holes. If you don't "locate" the parts properly, either as I've outlined above or by some other method, the geometry can get bad out of whack in a hurry. --]
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: san antonio
Don't do that! Those small of shims will get eaten alive by the rockers. I feel .010 is the thinnest I would install... on the NON thrust side.
Go to J&P and find shovelhead rocker shaft shims. Might as well run shims made for the application.
IMHO... shims are basically unnecessary. Been there, done that.
Go to J&P and find shovelhead rocker shaft shims. Might as well run shims made for the application.
IMHO... shims are basically unnecessary. Been there, done that.
Rocker boxes can be aligned with the oil pump alignment pins used in the breather bolt locations.
Last edited by djl; Mar 4, 2012 at 10:19 AM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,543
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From: Ashland Ohio
The "noise' has nothing to do with cam changes, per se. A better cam can aggravate an already existing condition. New/old doesn't matter... some TCs will rattle and that is all there is to it.
Besides the rocker shaft to rocker, stem protrusion plays a part once the cam is upped, and also the lifter bores in a TC are bored into the case instead of replaceable lifter bores. Just a .001 OS will cause some issues. Lastly, newer bikes may have some lifter issues. If swapping to a Woods, and possibly some Gaterman lifters doesn't fix.....Bottom line for folks is to learn to get past most valve train noises and enjoy the ride.
Besides the rocker shaft to rocker, stem protrusion plays a part once the cam is upped, and also the lifter bores in a TC are bored into the case instead of replaceable lifter bores. Just a .001 OS will cause some issues. Lastly, newer bikes may have some lifter issues. If swapping to a Woods, and possibly some Gaterman lifters doesn't fix.....Bottom line for folks is to learn to get past most valve train noises and enjoy the ride.