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I talked to Rev performance they said they all needed to be welded.It looks like you comfirmed that thanks.Im running gear drive cams they cant stand that .
We have run a bunch of the jims SE cranks and have re checked them with 30 +k miles after the build with no movement at all. No you can induced flywheel shift by locking up the rear tire and not pulling the clutch in, dyno operator that is careless etc. If you weld that crank it is hard to repair at a later date, the plug is the best way in my opinion. For a stock or mild upgrade the crank in stock form has held in kits that are making upwards of 150/150 mark. There will always be the odd one that moves for what ever reason. We build in house 200 + kits a year so we do get a good veiw of what works and what does not.
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i have heard from several other builders i greatly respect that agree with you - normally the se forged flywheels from jims have no issues unless the bike is abused, or braked hard with engine engaged or dyno abuse, etc. i had asked them about balancing and plugging the flywheel, but was having no problems right now. their comment was it was probably not justified to go into the lower case just to pull the flywheel and plug / balance, etc as long as there were no known issues. they even said that they had not seen any left side bearing failures themselves where there was no timken conversions unless the same thing was happening - excessively hard braking without engaging the clutch, dyno misuse, or hard street racing. most all the cases they had seen over many years involved some history of those things or was a rider who was very hard on their bikes and had big aggressively ridden engines. they all recommended a high quality flywheel, but were by far not as concerned with welding, etc as many on the forums seem to be.
my question is i bought a bike that supposedly had had the timken upgrade conversion when the motor was rebuilt, but i have found the seller was not very accurate on many things, and i really suspect it was not done. it is a 113 hq motor now, but the lower cases were left alone when the se 113 package was replaced- should i be concerned enough to go into the lower case to see if the timken bearing is in place, or leave well enough alone. i do not do any drag racing, rarely get over 3500 rpms and it is in a fltr that is ridden fairly conservatively on long rides across country. i just do not want a failure on some long trip far away from home if it is a likely scenario. if it is not likely to occur i would rather not spend the money - want it to be a justified expense and not just a way to spend money needlessly.
I'd ride it till it starts viberating. I wanted to say something funny on herebut I didn't want Steve's ribs to hurt too much so get some of that twinky dust from Steve and sprinkle on it.[sm=wootwoot.gif][sm=wootwoot.gif][sm=wootwoot.gif][sm=wootwoot.gif][sm=wootwoot.gif]
the original jims made cranks were part # 23600-00 for the twin cam A motors. they originally listed for around 1300 but after the cvo flywheels came out and were used a lot, the price came down. the cvo or cheaper versionflywheels were around 700 the last time i heard (full price before any discounts). the cvo or cheaper version part number for the twin cam A motors is 23728-07. the part numbers are different for the twin cam B motors. it sounds like yours is the better crank, but you need the part number to make sure.
(unsure if jims makes the better flywheels now - they did originally - hence they were referred to as the jims flywheel - but harley may have different source now for the better flywheel.)
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