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I dropped my bike off at the shop the other day to have a new cam installed and was asked by the wrench if I wanted to go with adjustable pushrods. I didn't know what to say. Its gonna cost about $100 more to go that route and the only apparent advantage would be to make it easier to do any future cam changes. I'd like to hear any opinions on the pros/cons of adjustable pushrods.
Thanks
Naturally the dealer suggested adjustable push rods. They don't want to pull the rockers and covers. I would ask questions. The old SE rods are $140 and I believe they will save you more in labor than that. The new tapered SE rods are $160. The other problem is SOME dealers will use the installation of the adjustable to void a warranty claim if there is a failure later. If they are not pulling the rockers off, IMO should cover the cost of the rods. And I would get a warranty on the rods them selves to the point that it would cover any future warranty repairs. Some dealers do warranty work no questions asked, some stick to the warranty guidelines and others just screw you.
Cam lifts up to .510 are "bolt in" and do not require adjustable pushrods.......as the guys have stated above.........adjustables allow you to move up to cams with higher lift and they do adjust for milled deck heights, shaved heads, thinner gaskets, etc.............You have around 100 thou (.100 of an inch) before you need to go to adjustables.
Ozroder, don't take this as a flame, adjustable push rods have nothing to do with the amount of lift, It is if the replacement came has a different base circle. The push rods are set at .100 witch is approximately 1/2 way between lifter plunger fully extended and bottomed out. If you milled .100 from the head the stock push rods would have no travel and the valves will not fully close, solid cam. A stock cam has approximately 1.3 inch base circle. If the replacement cam only has a 1.1 inch base circle the rods will be to short and the valves will definitely slam shut.
Last edited by FXSTDSE2; Aug 26, 2008 at 05:20 PM.
if you can get by without using adj pushrods do so. if you plan on going back in the future you can always cut the stock ones out. It should not take any competant shop $140 worth of labor to remove the rocker boxes. Stock ones are stiffer and lighter and will never come undone or break.
I dont get flamed by anyone these days my friend..............I pretty well known on VTF , I guess not on here yet...........and yes I do agree with your points........
But for what Stinkfist wants I will stick with my response so as not to complicate the issue too much.
I dont get flamed by anyone these days my friend..............I pretty well known on VTF , I guess not on here yet
Give it time and folks will get to know you. FWIW since I've been in VTF I've enjoyed and learned a great deal from yours along with Doc's post, not to mention some other folks that used to dish out some great information and now have decided to move on.
It should not take any competant shop $140 worth of labor to remove the rocker boxes.
I agree with you 100%, BUT as most of us know, they're going to charge you book time, no matter how long it actually takes them. So, if the "magic book" says 2 hrs labor, and they have a good tech do it in 1 hr, you still get to pay for the 2 hrs. B.O.H.I.C.A.- Bend Over, Here It Comes Again!
New to this site and learning a lot quickly. I have a 94 Heritage with SE dyno jet kit and VH long shot pipes. I want to put in a SE 3 cam,do I need the adjustable push rods? Is the cam an easy swap or do I need to go see a B.O.H.I.C. specialist? Thanks.
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