Rod Length?

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Oct 26, 2008 | 10:53 AM

#11

mopardave

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From: Florida

I can't afford anything right now, and most of the stuff that those guys list looks like it is way more than I'll ever need to spend. I was already planning on going up in bore, improving the heads and re-camming and now I'm hearing all the info about the stock crank/bearings......I just had the thought that if the only price dif in going bigger than 107 is the boring of the cases and the new jugs...then it might be worth doing.
Am I incorrect in thinking that you have to split it to upgrade the bearing?

Oct 26, 2008 | 11:00 AM

#12

SuperAhcmed

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mopardave

Well if you have the money to split the case and get the Timken or SE "Lefty bearing" installed, you may as well get your crank TIG'd,trued and balanced as well while you get your case bored. If you are on a budget the SE "Lefty" bearing seems like a nice cheaper alternative to the Timken conversion. I had a chance to get my hands on one of these yesterday finally, and this Heavy Duty INA bearing looks to have some promise. The races and casing are significantly improved and reinforced over the stock unit(which honestly inst all that bad)so I can see people getting good results out of these for high hp builds. And you will save a few hundred bucks in the process too. Use the money saved and get your crank button'd up and pick up a locking compensator sprocket nut frm EMC and your bottom end should be good to go.

Oct 26, 2008 | 11:12 AM

#13

mopardave

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From: Florida

I'm hoping next year some time. Just trying to put a plan together. You're saying that the stock crank is good enough if I get it fixed up? The compensator lock nut....it eliminates the compensator by locking it in place?

Oct 26, 2008 | 11:43 AM

#14

rbabos

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From: Woodstock, Ont , Can

I think people get all bent out of shape on these straight roller bearings. I'm sure these crappy cranks will shift even with timpkins unless they receive the anti slip treatment. While the timpkin will offer better radial stability to the output shaft it won't stop a crankpin from shifting if it's too loose of a press. I wouldn't have a problem with the beefier straight roller myself . Without a good crank the whole thing is a waste of time.
Ron

Oct 26, 2008 | 12:08 PM

#15

SuperAhcmed

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mopardave

The stock cast crank is fine. Get it trued and the PIN TIG welded and plugged and thats all you honestly need to do. Can be done for around $100. Add a few hundred extra if you want to get it balanced as well.

The compensator lock nut mechanically LOCKS down the compensator bolt and keeps it from coming free. About $100 as well, worthwhile insurance. The "Lefty" bearing runs around $35-$40 and its probably less than $100 to have someone press it in.