Removing Left side Crankcase Plug
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Joined: Sep 2008
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Removing Left side Crankcase Plug
So, I'd like to take out the crankcase plug to check for wetsumping. I'm using a 6-inch long, 1/4-inch allen wrench. I haven't been able to break the plug free yet.
I saw a post a while back that said removing the plug is somehow dangerous - and suggested that it might be possible to crack the case. Of course, that one post has me a little nervous.
Should just get a wrench with enough length to break the plug free? Or am I risking some sort of damage?
Thanks.
PS. Thinking about checking for wetsumping because I'm typically getting less than 32 mpg out of my bike.
I saw a post a while back that said removing the plug is somehow dangerous - and suggested that it might be possible to crack the case. Of course, that one post has me a little nervous.
Should just get a wrench with enough length to break the plug free? Or am I risking some sort of damage?
Thanks.
PS. Thinking about checking for wetsumping because I'm typically getting less than 32 mpg out of my bike.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 40
From: Chester NY
How are your testing for wetsumping? It should be done with the bike pretty warm after a few miles. I have found the plugs usually come out without harm when the motor is warm. Use caution though, strip that and new cases are 700 bucks...
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Mileage
The weather has kept me from going for a ride. Been thinking about why my mileage is so low, so been doing some reading.
Wanted to see if I could get the plug out, but it would make alot more sense to get the bike up to a stable operating temperature - that should soften the loctite a bit.
Just noticed that I wrote left side - the plug is actually on the right side.
Wanted to see if I could get the plug out, but it would make alot more sense to get the bike up to a stable operating temperature - that should soften the loctite a bit.
Just noticed that I wrote left side - the plug is actually on the right side.
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 720
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PS. Thinking about checking for wetsumping because I'm typically getting less than 32 mpg out of my bike.
Heat the plug with a small torch if you must remove it or some damage may result. If you remove the plug, be sure not to reinstall it any deeper than it was originally.
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Thanks for the Help
It was only 30 degrees here in Kansas City yesterday, but I went for a good ride and heated the engine up nicely. Also got a 1/4" hex attachment for my socket wrench. That case plug came right out with very little effort.
I used my torque wrench to put it back just snug enough. The Service Manual says 120 - 144 in-lb.
I only drained about 4 oz out of the case. So, I'm going to check it when it is much warmer outside - at 30 degrees outside, my 20 mile ride only got the oil temp up to 150 degrees.
Another thought occurred to me. When the engine is off, does the oil in the case drain back to the oil pan? I didn't see anything in the description of the oil path that allows for gravity drain. If it doesn't drain, shouldn't an oil change include draining the case to get all of the old oil out?
I used my torque wrench to put it back just snug enough. The Service Manual says 120 - 144 in-lb.
I only drained about 4 oz out of the case. So, I'm going to check it when it is much warmer outside - at 30 degrees outside, my 20 mile ride only got the oil temp up to 150 degrees.
Another thought occurred to me. When the engine is off, does the oil in the case drain back to the oil pan? I didn't see anything in the description of the oil path that allows for gravity drain. If it doesn't drain, shouldn't an oil change include draining the case to get all of the old oil out?
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