Which one??
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Low rent district, south side of Chicago
Which one??
Ok so I'm new on here but not new to Forums. Have a lil question. I just bent the crank in my stock 03 Road King , so I'm going to have to break it down and replace it. I never go back to stock so I was looking for input on stroker kits. We have had some great luck with the big bore 95's , but have never built a stroker t/c. Thinking of 124 S&S, how is the drive ability?
Looking for honest opinions..
Looking for honest opinions..
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,270
Likes: 0
117 ci
4 3/8 crank from S&S have it welded
Baisley heads super Stock or Pro Street (Roller rockers come with these heads sett up for you cam)
or Hillside Heads
axtell cylinders.
T-Man 650 cam
Borzilla
and hold on.
....
proven combo and it will get you into the 138-143 hp/tq range with the right heads.
(Baisley or Hillside)
depends on how radical you want to go.
or you can use the same combo with a diffrent cam and Baisley super stock heads and go for lower compression and still have 130 hp/tq. extremly reliable .
with a good tune this baby will rev faster and run super cool when the temps go up.....
4 3/8 crank from S&S have it welded
Baisley heads super Stock or Pro Street (Roller rockers come with these heads sett up for you cam)
or Hillside Heads
axtell cylinders.
T-Man 650 cam
Borzilla
and hold on.
....
proven combo and it will get you into the 138-143 hp/tq range with the right heads.
(Baisley or Hillside)
depends on how radical you want to go.
or you can use the same combo with a diffrent cam and Baisley super stock heads and go for lower compression and still have 130 hp/tq. extremly reliable .
with a good tune this baby will rev faster and run super cool when the temps go up.....
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,663
Likes: 7
From: Northeast Ohio
I have heard some good things about the S&S 124, if you are talking about buying the complete engine. Big Dollars $$$$$$
I am running 120" with Jims 4-5/8" stoker wheels with Darkhorse h-beam rods, and a Headquarters top end, including their cam, pistons and headwork and am very happy with it. I have 25,000 miles on the bike since the build and it still does not use oil and starts and runs great. 125hp/145tq
If you want a real budget build, go with a 113 or 117, you still need a crank to replace the stocker, but less expensive than going stroker. Check into the Head Quarters 113 package, great numbers, and very good reliability, and rideability.
I am running 120" with Jims 4-5/8" stoker wheels with Darkhorse h-beam rods, and a Headquarters top end, including their cam, pistons and headwork and am very happy with it. I have 25,000 miles on the bike since the build and it still does not use oil and starts and runs great. 125hp/145tq
If you want a real budget build, go with a 113 or 117, you still need a crank to replace the stocker, but less expensive than going stroker. Check into the Head Quarters 113 package, great numbers, and very good reliability, and rideability.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Low rent district, south side of Chicago
Thanks so far for the comments, like I said I'm looking at different combos. Trying to find the best bang for the buck . We are getting 117hp and 112ft out of a 96 inch big bore. so looking for a good comparision
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 171
Likes: 1
From:
Whatever you do, don't skimp on the crank. Get it trued and welded, with Timkens installed. I see more people also using R&R 5 piece cranks.
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11
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From: Low rent district, south side of Chicago
I planned on a good crank, but even if I spend killer money on a crank no one welds them up from the factory?
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 851
Likes: 5
From: Mitchellville, Ia.
I also like the R&R 5 piece, they don't need welding and are fully rebuildable by any competent shop. Many head options from 107" to 124" will get you from 115 to 145 torque and horse. I talked to a guy in Louisiana today that went down from a 124 to a 117 with the same R&R stage 5 cast heads and believes he has more power with the changes we made.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 7
The HD crank should be very good.
The original design, From Donnie Petersons book, Vol 2, calls for the pin to be installed into the wheels with a 0.007 interferance fit.
Heat the wheels, cool the pin and quickly fit them together at the factory. No welding.
Should be solid, But
Somewhere down the line there must have been some relaxation of the rules here. At least for some period of time.
If I was going to do what you have to do at least for some part:
Go with a very good 4.5 or 4.5/8 in crank fitted to my HD cases with the Timkin bearing modifiication to the case. Would use Axtell cilinders fitted to a fitted bored case.
Even going stock still have to split the case and get a stock crank that has been alll trued up and welded. And the timkin bearings.
And then there is Balance Master for the crank now.
So much fun so little time.
The original design, From Donnie Petersons book, Vol 2, calls for the pin to be installed into the wheels with a 0.007 interferance fit.
Heat the wheels, cool the pin and quickly fit them together at the factory. No welding.
Should be solid, But
Somewhere down the line there must have been some relaxation of the rules here. At least for some period of time.
If I was going to do what you have to do at least for some part:
Go with a very good 4.5 or 4.5/8 in crank fitted to my HD cases with the Timkin bearing modifiication to the case. Would use Axtell cilinders fitted to a fitted bored case.
Even going stock still have to split the case and get a stock crank that has been alll trued up and welded. And the timkin bearings.
And then there is Balance Master for the crank now.
So much fun so little time.
Last edited by Old Gunny; Jul 7, 2009 at 03:15 PM.