ruff running EVO after warmup
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2005
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From:
ruff running EVO after warmup
Hi,
I have a 1992 Electra Glide with a stock mostly EVO in it. I have gone through most of the basic areas ie...carb, ignition and such. It seems to be running just fine. Having onlt just owned an HD I don't know what to expect in noise and other general proformance issues.
One of the things I have noticed is once my bike has warmed up completly, it has a lot of valve train noise. I think this is OK as it is just the way things are. I used 20/50 Amsoil and psi is between 28 and 32 at 2500. This seems just fine.
My biggest consern at this time is once the EVO has warmed up throughly, the lower gears are very ruff. Seems to smooth out once I get above 2500 in them and is very smooth in 4th and 5th from 2000 up.
Anyone have any comments on this? Does this sound normal for a EVO with rubber mounts. By the way, I have been in a traffic jam with this bike and as the EVO gets hotter the ruffness seems to get worse. At idle the psi will drop very low as the EVO gets hotter. I'm wondering if the Amsoil syn is helping in this situation or hurting.
Thanks all for listening to me going on......
Mark
I have a 1992 Electra Glide with a stock mostly EVO in it. I have gone through most of the basic areas ie...carb, ignition and such. It seems to be running just fine. Having onlt just owned an HD I don't know what to expect in noise and other general proformance issues.
One of the things I have noticed is once my bike has warmed up completly, it has a lot of valve train noise. I think this is OK as it is just the way things are. I used 20/50 Amsoil and psi is between 28 and 32 at 2500. This seems just fine.
My biggest consern at this time is once the EVO has warmed up throughly, the lower gears are very ruff. Seems to smooth out once I get above 2500 in them and is very smooth in 4th and 5th from 2000 up.
Anyone have any comments on this? Does this sound normal for a EVO with rubber mounts. By the way, I have been in a traffic jam with this bike and as the EVO gets hotter the ruffness seems to get worse. At idle the psi will drop very low as the EVO gets hotter. I'm wondering if the Amsoil syn is helping in this situation or hurting.
Thanks all for listening to me going on......
Mark
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: South Jersey
RE: ruff running EVO after warmup
Sounds like a typical HD and if you think the EVO has a loud valve train, you should ride a twin cam... they're worse. As for the Amsoil, it is actually helping. It'll take the heat better than regular dino oil.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: jacksonville, nc
RE: ruff running EVO after warmup
just my 2 cents, but i think id check the tension on the primary, if its bucking and jerking in the lower gears, its because the faster you go in the higher gears, the more tolerant the drive train is. 
hope you find it quick!!
hope you find it quick!!
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Cruiser
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From:
RE: ruff running EVO after warmup
I just recently put a new adjustment sled or whatever it's called in. I adjusted the chain according to book spec's. Put new primary HD oil in. So With this in mind, do you think I should tighten the chain more? Are spec's in the book off from what it actually should be?
Mark
Mark
Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
RE: ruff running EVO after warmup
How many miles on this bike?
If you adjusted the primary chain tension correctly and it hasn't slipped, don't worry about it, unless the chain & sprockets are worn out.
Check your engine mounts. A bad one will allow the motor to shake around considerably. Check your clutch. If it has warped plates, it can cause shuddering, etc. on takeoff.
I'm not sure what you mean by low gears are very rough... smooths above 2500 in them. Do you mean that below 2500 rpm when you are in 1st or 2nd the bike bucks? If so does it buck during acceleration, steady state ops, deceleration, or what combo of these?
If you adjusted the primary chain tension correctly and it hasn't slipped, don't worry about it, unless the chain & sprockets are worn out.
Check your engine mounts. A bad one will allow the motor to shake around considerably. Check your clutch. If it has warped plates, it can cause shuddering, etc. on takeoff.
I'm not sure what you mean by low gears are very rough... smooths above 2500 in them. Do you mean that below 2500 rpm when you are in 1st or 2nd the bike bucks? If so does it buck during acceleration, steady state ops, deceleration, or what combo of these?
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
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From:
RE: ruff running EVO after warmup
I'm not sure what you mean by low gears are very rough... smooths above 2500 in them. Do you mean that below 2500 rpm when you are in 1st or 2nd the bike bucks? If so does it buck during acceleration, steady state ops, deceleration, or what combo of these?
OK the bike has 29,000 miles on it.
What I can discribe as ruff is, As I start out in first and throttle at a level rpm in first "under 2500 rpm" The bike runs ruff like a ruff shaking movement that is out of snyc. At high speeds and high rpm's it is smooth compared to what I call ruff.
I'm not sure what you mean by bucks?
Anyway, I have looked at the belt and it looks tight and seems to be tracking straight. No ware, the bel=t looks in good shape. Also the belt wheel or whatever you call it is fine with no visible marks.
I can drain the primary and look at the chain but I say it is fine as I had looked at it two weeks ago when I worked on it. And there's no slipping.
Probably the biggest thing that bugs me is the bike runs fine in low gear while it's warming up. Once it gets throughly warmed up is when it runs ruff. May also be because I have the enricher in but I don't think that is it. The bike warms up easy and I don't use to much enricher.
That's all I can think of for now.
Thanks......
OK the bike has 29,000 miles on it.
What I can discribe as ruff is, As I start out in first and throttle at a level rpm in first "under 2500 rpm" The bike runs ruff like a ruff shaking movement that is out of snyc. At high speeds and high rpm's it is smooth compared to what I call ruff.
I'm not sure what you mean by bucks?
Anyway, I have looked at the belt and it looks tight and seems to be tracking straight. No ware, the bel=t looks in good shape. Also the belt wheel or whatever you call it is fine with no visible marks.
I can drain the primary and look at the chain but I say it is fine as I had looked at it two weeks ago when I worked on it. And there's no slipping.
Probably the biggest thing that bugs me is the bike runs fine in low gear while it's warming up. Once it gets throughly warmed up is when it runs ruff. May also be because I have the enricher in but I don't think that is it. The bike warms up easy and I don't use to much enricher.
That's all I can think of for now.
Thanks......
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Cruiser
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From:
RE: ruff running EVO after warmup
I wanted to add something to my thoughts......
When I rev the bike after it has warmed up it will also rev ruff. Now this is not a huge problem. I just think the bike should be smoother. But again as I stated before, This is my first HD and I'm not sure what to expect in regards to smoothness and performance.
Also another way of saying ruff would be shuddering, it shudders ruffly when I start or rev the engine. Again smooths out over 2500 rpm and in 3,4 and 5th gears.
My desire is to make this bike run as good as it can.
Thanks all....................
When I rev the bike after it has warmed up it will also rev ruff. Now this is not a huge problem. I just think the bike should be smoother. But again as I stated before, This is my first HD and I'm not sure what to expect in regards to smoothness and performance.
Also another way of saying ruff would be shuddering, it shudders ruffly when I start or rev the engine. Again smooths out over 2500 rpm and in 3,4 and 5th gears.
My desire is to make this bike run as good as it can.
Thanks all....................
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: My house
RE: ruff running EVO after warmup
I will just jump in and say it sounds like you have some low speed problems such as trash, or water in the carb, or possible low compression in the motor. Do a compression check, should be at least 150 # plus, and equal to each cylinder within 5-10 pounds. If thats good put in new plugs, and go from there. Could be other problems as well but you have to have three things for the motor to run right, spark, compression and fuel. Let us know how you come out.
John TN
John TN
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2005
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From:
RE: ruff running EVO after warmup
I gave in and took it to the Harley dealer. Paid them $50.00 to look it over and give me a opinion of it's condition. They said it looked fine and was within spec's. They looked at the problem and said the only thing they could recommend was change out the primary chain. They thought it might be stretched to far to be withing spec's. Also inspect the hub and bearings, replace if necessary.
So I think they are right about the chain and it will smooth out the low end enough to make it worth changing. As for the ruffness in the low end, As I said earlier I'm not experienced enough to compare what this Harley's capabilities are. So I guess it runs a little in the low end and that is normal.
Thanks all for your help
Mark.............
So I think they are right about the chain and it will smooth out the low end enough to make it worth changing. As for the ruffness in the low end, As I said earlier I'm not experienced enough to compare what this Harley's capabilities are. So I guess it runs a little in the low end and that is normal.
Thanks all for your help
Mark.............
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: My house
RE: ruff running EVO after warmup
To save you some money, I recommend that you get a service manual before you let the dealer just start replacing something because they think it's bad. Stuff like the primary chain can be checked by yourself. You have to take covers off to inspect the primary and it has a tension block that sets the slack. They could be right on the money, but I think it is something else since the bike has only 29,000 miles, it could be the tension block worn out, or just need adjusting or the compensating nut has come loose. Just a thought and if you have some mechanical skills you can do most of the maintainance and some repairs.
You have already spent $50.00 that could have went towards the manual. Good luck and keep us posted.
John TN
You have already spent $50.00 that could have went towards the manual. Good luck and keep us posted.
John TN