want to replace lifters
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 627
Likes: 195
From: St. Louis
want to replace lifters
I'm determined to get rid of this ticking.
2001 stock FLHTCI (street legal pipes and stock EFI) 52,000 miles
I run both syn and dino and still hearing the ticking from rear rocker box. Have tightened every bolt and replaced exhaust gaskets. I run 93 octane gas.
Runs strong and smooth (no power loss) with ticking, especially at 3,000 rpm
Adjustable HD push rods, changed cam chain tensioner 12,000 miles ago.
I want to replace lifters. I've never done this--dealer did the push rods. How do you replace lifters and adjust the SE push rods?
Thanks.
2001 stock FLHTCI (street legal pipes and stock EFI) 52,000 miles
I run both syn and dino and still hearing the ticking from rear rocker box. Have tightened every bolt and replaced exhaust gaskets. I run 93 octane gas.
Runs strong and smooth (no power loss) with ticking, especially at 3,000 rpm
Adjustable HD push rods, changed cam chain tensioner 12,000 miles ago.
I want to replace lifters. I've never done this--dealer did the push rods. How do you replace lifters and adjust the SE push rods?
Thanks.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 10,033
Likes: 29
I'll bet money replacing lifters won't change a thing, but anyway. Replacing lifters is easy since you already have adjustables.
1.) Take clip off pushrod tube, collapse tube and wire up outta your way.
2.) Unadjust pushrod and remove.
3.) Take 4 allens out that hold lifter cover down and remove cover.
4.) Pull out lifter. Replace lifter...Take not of anti-rotation pin. You'll see it and know what it is.
5.) Put lifter cover back on, preferably with new gasket.
6.) Put pushrod back in and adjust according to instructions.
7.) Put pushrod tube clip back on.
1.) Take clip off pushrod tube, collapse tube and wire up outta your way.
2.) Unadjust pushrod and remove.
3.) Take 4 allens out that hold lifter cover down and remove cover.
4.) Pull out lifter. Replace lifter...Take not of anti-rotation pin. You'll see it and know what it is.
5.) Put lifter cover back on, preferably with new gasket.
6.) Put pushrod back in and adjust according to instructions.
7.) Put pushrod tube clip back on.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 19
From: Ashland Ohio
Here;
Use a combination of these three links to guide you through. Two show cam changes, but just worry about the lifter and pushrod portions.
https://www.hdforums.com.au/Default....ics&forumid=24
http://www.*****************/forums/tw...ain-noise.html
http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/camguidepage1.htm
FYI, that ticking is most likely going to be very hard to get rid of. But... I would check the adjustable pushrods IF the ticking started after their installation.
I, myself, have went WAY beyond all this to try to get rid of tick. HAHA But... with a 2001 bike, YOUR crank should be good to go. Most likely (if not a bad lifter) some end play on rocker arms. It will come down to what u can live with -vs- how much to spend to chase this down. I hope the lifters work, AND it IS something YOU can do!
Buy a service manual from your Harley Dealer, they are like $60. You really do NOT want to open up engine without one, even for easy stuff like this. Buy some blue locktite in a tube, too.
I own a POS bike. Right this month... I am going to install a welded trued and balanced crank, do a 106 kit, have my heads ported. In reality... this is because of damn tick. Its a well since I'm doin the crank( slipped crank, which YOU won't have)... might as well... thing.
Read this, too. http://harleytechtalk.net/htt/index.php?topic=7451.0
Use a combination of these three links to guide you through. Two show cam changes, but just worry about the lifter and pushrod portions.
https://www.hdforums.com.au/Default....ics&forumid=24
http://www.*****************/forums/tw...ain-noise.html
http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/camguidepage1.htm
FYI, that ticking is most likely going to be very hard to get rid of. But... I would check the adjustable pushrods IF the ticking started after their installation.
I, myself, have went WAY beyond all this to try to get rid of tick. HAHA But... with a 2001 bike, YOUR crank should be good to go. Most likely (if not a bad lifter) some end play on rocker arms. It will come down to what u can live with -vs- how much to spend to chase this down. I hope the lifters work, AND it IS something YOU can do!
Buy a service manual from your Harley Dealer, they are like $60. You really do NOT want to open up engine without one, even for easy stuff like this. Buy some blue locktite in a tube, too.
I own a POS bike. Right this month... I am going to install a welded trued and balanced crank, do a 106 kit, have my heads ported. In reality... this is because of damn tick. Its a well since I'm doin the crank( slipped crank, which YOU won't have)... might as well... thing.
Read this, too. http://harleytechtalk.net/htt/index.php?topic=7451.0
Last edited by wurk_truk; Jul 21, 2009 at 09:20 AM.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 627
Likes: 195
From: St. Louis
Thanks guys for the quick replies. It appears to my ear, that the clicking is at the rear of the back rocker box so I'm thinking it's the exhaust valve push rod. My first thought is to adjust all of them again and see if it goes away. Why replace lifters if I don't need to, but I may need to? The fact that I get smooth acceleration, no power loss and smooth cruising at any rpm tells me that the lifters are probably okay. If the push rod changed in any fashion over 14k miles, I'm thinking that may be the problem. I'm going by the dealer to get a copy of the installation guide for the adjustable push rods. I'll let you know if the ticking goes away. Thanks again.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 7
All the instructions will do is explaine how to get the lifters adjusted to the mid point of the lifter piston travel, which is about, 0.200 total. Depending on threads per inch of your pushrods the aim is the middle or about , 0.100.
I have found, cause I lissent to Bob Woods and some others who really understand this, if you go a little further and target 0.150 down, things get much quiter.
For instance with 32 tpi pushrods that call for 3 turns down, go 4.5 turns down.
This with steel pushrods, which probably grow less that the cilenders as they get hot.
And this is just a pushrod adjustment. Not a replacement or any cost.
I have found, cause I lissent to Bob Woods and some others who really understand this, if you go a little further and target 0.150 down, things get much quiter.
For instance with 32 tpi pushrods that call for 3 turns down, go 4.5 turns down.
This with steel pushrods, which probably grow less that the cilenders as they get hot.
And this is just a pushrod adjustment. Not a replacement or any cost.
Last edited by Old Gunny; Jul 21, 2009 at 04:51 PM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 10,033
Likes: 29
Yes they do.
Trending Topics
Before you jump out there, take a look at what I did, the clack is gone.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/5305137-post115.html
...gene
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/5305137-post115.html
...gene
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Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 627
Likes: 195
From: St. Louis
All the instructions will do is explaine how to get the lifters adjusted to the mid point of the lifter piston travel, which is about, 0.200 total. Depending on threads per inch of your pushrods the aim is the middle or about , 0.100.
I have found, cause I lissent to Bob Woods and some others who really understand this, if you go a little further and target 0.150 down, things get much quiter.
For instance with 32 tpi pushrods that call for 3 turns down, go 4.5 turns down.
This with steel pushrods, which probably grow less that the cilenders as they get hot.
And this is just a pushrod adjustment. Not a replacement or any cost.
I have found, cause I lissent to Bob Woods and some others who really understand this, if you go a little further and target 0.150 down, things get much quiter.
For instance with 32 tpi pushrods that call for 3 turns down, go 4.5 turns down.
This with steel pushrods, which probably grow less that the cilenders as they get hot.
And this is just a pushrod adjustment. Not a replacement or any cost.
Thanks for input. I have read several of your posts on this--you seem to know your stuff. I am going to adjust the pushrods first to make sure they didn't loosen up. Also, the dealer installed these but I want to adjust them myself. I'm getting to the point that I hate to pay for any maintenance and repair I can do myself. Besides, it makes you feel better about your bike when you've done a lot of the work yourself--you know it gets done right, not that the dealer doesn't care.
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