I blew a rod bearing on my 2000 Road King with 40k miles and will take this oportunity to do a full rebuild. I want to make a lasting engine this time round. I have sent the bottom end out for rebuild and blueprint/balance with new h beam racing rods.

I am OK with power and torque as is heres the specs:
95 in.
SE Heads
SE 257 cams
SE ign. tuner
HD stock carb
SE intake
Rhinehart true duals
SE dome pistons

Looking to go gear drive on new cams. Anyone know what will match close to my pistons and cams

Pistons are ARIAS 9826HI Screamin Eagle cant find specs for comp. ratio
, anyone know what it is?


Thanks,

 

I may be reading your post wrong; I am reading that the components you have listed are the components of the rebuild; that is the basis for the below comments.

Which SE heads? There are only two that would work well with a 95"build; the Pro Kompressor (PN 17044-08) or the new MCR SE Performance (PN 16952-08) heads; both will require '06 or later intake flanges. The combination of the MCR heads and domed pistons won't work. The chambers are only 76cc; too small for domed pistons but would work well with the SE flattops which is a good combination. Having said that, for less than the price of the MCR heads, you can have your stock heads ported and that's a better performance move.

Have the crank welded as part of the re-build. Unless you plan to race, you don't need the H-beam rods; overkill for a well mannered 95" street build. Where did you send the crank?

There are much better cam choices than the 257.

The SE intake is overkill for the 40mm CV carb; the stocker will work fine.

The DTT ignition is a better choice than the SE ignition.

If you have to have TD exhaust, Rineharts are about as good as the come. The header pipe is a true stepped pipe but the dyno sheets I have seen indicate that the Rinehart system works better on larger displacement builds.

Consider the upgrade cam plate with hydro tensioners/roller chains and high volume oil pump. A little cheaper than gears, much easier to work with and quieter.

If I have read your post wrong and the listed components are the components of the build that blew the rod bearing, it is difficult to comment without knowing which SE heads you have and the piston specs.

A great build would be your heads with a Big Boyz "street" port job, decked for compression as required by the cam; SE cast flat top pistons, .030" cometic MLS head gasket; upgraded cam plate/tensioner setup and Andrews 26N cams. Will pull strong off idle to just past 4000rpm. If you want to move the TQ curve a little to the right, the 37 cam or maybe the 54 might work better; just depends on how you ride.

Select cam first and build around it.

 

Sence you are going to have it tore
plumb doen to the nut scratchings why
not go ahead and get a new crank and
build a 103 the crank is the only diferance
between a 95 and a 103

 

Thanks djl,
The crank is going to a guy in Quebec that my local shop uses. I am having the race rods installed because it isnt much extra $$. TIG welding is part of the plan.
The list above is what I took apart. I dont want get crazy, but have some money to make smart improvements, the bike goes good as is. I will be replacing cams, cam plate, oil pump, lifters and I think Carb. The cylinders will be bored over only to clean them up, my bike shop is recommending head work.
I was going gear drive because I think they will be smoother running and no chain/tensioners to worry about.

My heads are SE 16927-99 and 16928-99, cylinders are 16597-99. I cant find any info on the pistons, I called HD and they werent much help...The part #'s are 22863-00 and 22862-00

Thanks,
Stuart

 

I could be wrong, going from memory which is dangerous, but I believe the heads are the early SE Performance heads and the pistons are forged pistons designed specifically for those heads; if so, they should have a little "dish" on top. Those heads should have a chamber volume of about 76cc-78cc; check the chamber volume before you make any decisions about headwork as you really need to know what you are working with to make those decisions. Those heads won't need much headwork; they have already been decked .050" which is why the chambers are so small. If the heads are the early SE Performance heads, some work on the exhaust side, a multi-angle valve job, bowl blending and new seals is about all they need. The BigBoyz "street" port job for $299 would be perfect, or Don (Dewey's) Dorfman in Tacoma; both are hand porters and can do one off porting to meet the customer's specific requirements.

Flat top pistons with a .030" head gasket would be a good choice with those heads and the cast units will work fine.

Nothing against gear drives, I have run gears on both my bikes but recently converted one to the new hydro tensioner/roller chain setup and I will convert the other this spring. No worries with the tensioners with this setup; they work off oil pressure. Part of the problem with the early Morse chain setup was that the chain was not a roller chain and the spring pressure on the tensioners was very high. The new setup is easy to work with as there are no bearing/gears to press on/off, no lash to set, it's cheaper, quieter and the new pump is a high volume unit with much better scavenging. Just something to consider since you are changing cam plate anyway. Check out the link to the conversion parts, all MoCo, on the Andrews website; you can order the parts from Zanotti's for about $370.

http://www.andrewsproducts.com/motor...nstall_Kit.htm

A cam with an intake close of 38*-42* and a 240ish duration will work. Any of the cams referenced in my previous post fit but you do need to select the cam first and build around it; can't emphasize the enough. The 54 was introduced in mid '08 and a strong torquey cam.

As for the carb, I am partial to the CV and have never thought the benefit from changing to a Mikuni was worth the cost but many do. The CV40, jetted properly, will get the job done. JMHO

Good luck!

 

You can check your combustion chamber volume with water. Flip the heads over with all holes plugged and CC the heads with a syringe or measuring cup and use the scale on the cup or syringe to meter it. Those heads sound like the MCR heads.
I don't believe harley makes a forged flat top in the 95" catagory. I could be wrong. I would recommend a CP forged flat top or equivelant. The CP's are pricey but I have never heard of one failing. Also with that 76 CC chamber and your pistons being at roughly .015 above the top of the cylinder with a CP forged flat top, at TDC and with a .050 head gasket putting you at .035 squish your mechanical un-corrected compression ratio should be around 10.5:1.
Cam?
Andrews 54
T-Man ???...They have good cams. go to website.
Head Quarters HQ-0039***intake lift is .580***that might be at your valve spring limit.
Woods TW408

Hope that helps

 

Thanks for the input. I am ready to pull the $$ trigger and buy these parts. Let me know if I am out to lunch on anything:
Wiseco 10.5/1 moly skirt coated piston kit
Feuling cam plate kit with hp+ lifters
S&S gear drive kit
Andrews 59G cams
Andrews high lift valve springs
Dyna Ignition module

I will wait on head work till I get it dialed in with this setup.

Stuart

 

Hey are u from Kansas? If near you really need to call dave adams "harley dave". built my motor and it runs. 95 flat tops .040, ss 570 gears, his head work.. 99 hp 103 tq. stock 40CV rejetted. he did the same to an ultra and the guy pulls a trailor with it! i look for the sheet

 

I'd install a 4 3/8" crank, bore to 103"-107", with a Wood 6.
Re-work your existing cylinder head castings and your good to go.
Big broad torque, that will come on VERY quickly. Good fuel economy as well.
Scott

 

I don't see where anyone has yet given a direct answer to ks-rking's original question so, I'll ask it again. Is anyone able to help with the compression ratio on the part #22862-00 & 22863-00 pistons? I can't find these Screamin' Eagle pistons in the catalog. I have to believe that they were superseded by a newer design and, given a new part number. I need to buy new pistons but I must know what the ratio was on the old ones was as I don't want to re-map my ECM again. If anyone can stay on topic and provide a direct answer to the original question it would be greatly appreciated.