Ok all you engine builders out there. Here's my question: I have a set of new lifters I'm going to install.

I'm OK on the physical installation of the new lifters. Before I install them into the engine case, I take a hand oil pump with 20w50 Amsoil and pump the oil directly into the oil hole on the side of the lifter till oil comes out the top and spills out. I do this right before installing the lifter into the box. I do this for all four lifters.

Then I begin the process of rotating the engine to TDC and all that, then installing the adjustable push-rods. And this is where I am uncertain. I know and understand the process of adjusting the push rods to zero lash then multiple turns in order to reach the specific distance into the lifter, etc.

BUT, other than what I did with the hand pump, are these lifters truly ready for finding zero lash without ever having been in a running engine?????

Scenario 2: This scenario is about adjusting push-rods in an existing engine that has valve train noise. The engine is cold; I position the cylinder at TDC on the power stroke and remove that cylinder's push-rods.

Question: how long is it before the lifter is ready to be adjusted for zero lash.

I think I know the answer to the questions but I need verification. Isn't it the lifter's inner spring that pushes the guts of the lifter to the top of its travel? The oil just acts like a dampener or cushion in addition to lubricating the inside of the lifter, right?

If correct, isn't the answer for both above scenarios is the lifter is ready to adjust for zero lash immediately, regardless. Is it also true that the only time we need to take OIL inside the lifter into consideration while adjusting the push rods, is when allowing enought time for the lifter to "bleed" oil out so that the push rod sets the perscribed distance into the lifter...ie. .100 inch as determined by the number of turns, etc.?

Thank you in advance for your responses.

Jim

 

I think you are pretty right. The only thing is new lifters are very soft to the feel and you need to use gentle finger pressure.

For stock type HD lifters, (SB Chevy Eaton design) with a range of 0-0.200 I go down 0.150 instead of 0.100. A lot of folks do, for quieter running with stock engines. If that is possible.

I now run Woods Lifters with heavier than stocks valves springs. Very quiet.

 

Not claming to be an expert by responding but I would say that in the case of new lifters, you don't need to prime them with oil but,as Gunny comented, without oil they will "bleed" down fast. Leave the plugs on and spin the engine a bit before startup to prime the pump and get oil in the cam plate passages and then fire up. The lifters will clatter for a few seconds as the lifters pump up.

In the case of the re-adjusting liftes, the spring does push the cup up but I like to wait a few minute just to be sure the cup is all the way up.

Also, get the piston to TDC on the compression stroke before adjusting. Like Gunny, I take the pushrod just past .100" a turn or two for a little extra preload.

 

Hey Gunny, curious as to the "heavier than stock valve springs", are they from HD or not? If not, where do I find these?

 

Comp Cams, PAC and Ferrea:

Ferrea ~140# and 375# open
The CompCams ~170# and 400# open.
The PAC Beehives ~160# and 375# open.

But you can stick with stock up to 570 lift; no need to complicate things.