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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Is there really a need to pump up new lifters with oil? I'm thinking, as long as they are adjusted properly, they should be fine.
2.5 turns would equal 0.100" and three turns would be 0.120" - correct?
Anyone know what the B lifters actual travel is? 0.120" ?
I read several posts on this, and still not sure if I should go 2-1/2 turns or 3. The instructions I received said to go 2-1/2 turns, so that's probably the way to go. That's the HD adjustable pushrods.
Some lifter manufactures recommend to prime lifters with oil, some dont.
I dont know why all manufactures dont just recommend priming lifters full stop, (on Harleys), and stop the confusion,, (can be easily done with oil can)... The reason ,, when lifter is primed with oil, the plunger is more solid.. Finding zero lash is more precise,, (as the lifter is more solid, you minimize the chances of of bottoming the pushrod past zero lash, which can effect the overall adjustment your looking for).....
How many turns to get the preload you require depends on the brand of push rod you are using as there are a few different tpi (threads per inch) push rods out there.... What brand PR are you using? Most are 24 or 32 tpi.
I recommend going to 0.130" or 0.140" preload
How many turns to get the preload you require depends on the brand of push rod you are using as there are a few different tpi (threads per inch) push rods out there.... What brand PR are you using? Most are 24 or 32 tpi.
I recommend going to 0.130" or 0.140" preload
Your B lifters should be .200" of travel. A 24 tpi pushrod would require 20 flats (3 full turns and 2 flats) and a 32 tpi pushrod would require 27 flats (4 1/2 full turns) preload.
Why do people mess with adjustable pushrods? seems like it would be easier to just use the stock or .030 over solid pushrods. These solid pushrods can still be used with aftermarket cams, correct?
Why do people mess with adjustable pushrods? seems like it would be easier to just use the stock or .030 over solid pushrods. These solid pushrods can still be used with aftermarket cams, correct?
We use adjustables for several reasons
1) when you install a higher lift cam it (depending on the amount of lift) will have a smaller base circle. A smaller base circle increases the amount of distance between the lobe of the cam and the rocker. A stock pushrod length is determined at the factory or engineered to give .100" preload on the lifter. So if the Base circle is smaller you will have less preload and a noisier valve trane.
2) Same goes for the heads. If you shaved the heads a lot to pick up the compression it is possible that a shorter distance between the cam lobe and the rocker will put too much preload on the lifers.
3) If you like to change cams often enough, adjustable pushrods make it easier.
.140" preload is where you really want to be for both performance and a quiet running machine. That's hard to achieve with a stock solid pushrod.
We use adjustables for several reasons
1) when you install a higher lift cam it (depending on the amount of lift) will have a smaller base circle. A smaller base circle increases the amount of distance between the lobe of the cam and the rocker. A stock pushrod length is determined at the factory or engineered to give .100" preload on the lifter. So if the Base circle is smaller you will have less preload and a noisier valve trane.
2) Same goes for the heads. If you shaved the heads a lot to pick up the compression it is possible that a shorter distance between the cam lobe and the rocker will put too much preload on the lifers.
3) If you like to change cams often enough, adjustable pushrods make it easier.
.140" preload is where you really want to be for both performance and a quiet running machine. That's hard to achieve with a stock solid pushrod.
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