Knocking from engine area
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Scott
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When you checked the connecting rod bearings did you wash them out?The engine oil can buffer a lot of movement in the rods.With the top end removed bring the rods around in the crank and spray them out with brake clean.Once all the oils out of the bearings you will and hear any unwanted movement.
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The wear on the pump to cam plate serface, and camplate bushing looked the same at 17k and 40k. Very rough. I assume the crank had been wobbling for 40 thousand miles. The replacement inner tensioner looked almost new at 40k and the outer had minimal additional wear. I'd recommend polishing the timing chains. Guess the point I'm trying to make is some twin cam engines can have terrible runout before they take a ****. Most of them will last long enough to be out of warrenty before they kill the oil pump.
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From: san antonio
Did you measure the runout? Hard to believe you couldn't feel .017" runout. You should have had **** falling off the bike. Also very unusual for that much runout in an '02. Not that it can't happen but with forged crank and Timken; the '02 bottom end was a bulllet proof as they come. I have ridden a bike with .013" runout and it was unrideable. Fairing brackets would break, floor boards/handlebars vibrated so bad your hands and feet would go to sleep in 20 minutes; couldn't see anything in the mirrors. The whole bike shook; it was just to painful to ride. Was like that from the day the guy rode it home from the dealership and he immediately started questioning/complaining. Finally and after much angst, the MoCo agreed to replace the engine.
Maybe some will tolerate a lot of runout but this one would not. If the owner had continued to ride it, it would have grenaded in short order.
Maybe some will tolerate a lot of runout but this one would not. If the owner had continued to ride it, it would have grenaded in short order.
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Did the comp. nut ever come loose? Mine did and later I found out the Rotor over the Stator had worn on the spines. Finally replaced it when the Stator went bad last week. The loose comp nut was about a year ago. Helped alot.
Tim
Tim
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On the late modle 96 the primary chain can hit the primary cover first bolt boss as it comes around the front sproket. That boss is inside the cover at the place where the engine can throw some slack and WHAK, it'll hits if just tiny slack.
check it out you can see when the cover is off.
check it out you can see when the cover is off.
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While checking out Gunny's good advice Try swapping out the compensator with a known good one.
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The answer to this bolt boss is a Drimel with little cutter ---BUT---
This area is really "Bearing City". Every roller link is a set of roller bearings, and there are lots of other regular bearings around.
Aluminum is hard enough and Chrome is really hard.
If you cut here protect everything first. Make BIG effort to keep the debri out of the primary area.
And you can take the chain off first, if checking the compensator.
This area is really "Bearing City". Every roller link is a set of roller bearings, and there are lots of other regular bearings around.
Aluminum is hard enough and Chrome is really hard.
If you cut here protect everything first. Make BIG effort to keep the debri out of the primary area.
And you can take the chain off first, if checking the compensator.
Last edited by Old Gunny; Nov 4, 2010 at 09:17 AM.
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From: san antonio
Originally Posted by shadylane
While checking out Gunny's good advice Try swapping out the compensator with a known good one.
Haven't heard from Ultra18054 lately; maybe he will update us on progress??