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Upgrading Motor Question?

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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 09:50 AM
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Default Upgrading Motor Question?

I am getting closer to making up my mind to have an upgrade done on my 2004 Carb Hertiage Classic. What I'm looking for is some good hauling power when riding 2-up with some luggage. I don't need to do the 1/4 mile in 2 seconds or do wheelies down the road just some good pull while 2-up riding when I climb a hill or want to past on the Higway. Don't know how to expalin it any better then that. I have talked to a couple of dealers and have searched this forum but I am still some what confused with some of the answers i.e. the dealer told me SE 203 Cams, SE 16 Gauge Shot Gun Pipes, Carb rejet, SE air cleaner would most likely do it for me. Others say if you go this far you should spend a little more to do the job right.(???) I would like some more info from the members who know this stuff please. I really would rather go with Vance and Hines Long Shot HS Pipes and if I did would the extra money spent on these pipes over the SE 16 Gauge Shot Gun pipes be worth it? Or should I go with the 1550 upgrade? Those are the questions I am still not clear on.


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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 11:26 AM
  #2  
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xxxflhrci
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Default RE: Upgrading Motor Question?

Whatever you decide whether it just be a simple cam swap or a big bore kit, do yourself a favor and skip on the 203's or any other chain drive cam and get a gear drive....That is if you plan on riding the bike any significant number of miles and want to get rid of a weak link in the chain.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 01:24 PM
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Default RE: Upgrading Motor Question?

Building torque on a Vtwin is a little more difficult than building HP. I think that's mostly because bike owners and parts buyers often don't know the differance and shoot for high HP #'s.

RPM's will be low, so you don't need huge amounts of air flow. But you don't want any restrictions to flow.You can upgrade to the SE filter, or modify the stock filter for about 1/3 the money. Use a K&N HD-800 filter and cut out most of the stock plastic backing plate.

Pipes are probably the worst offenders here. There are lots of choices for high rpm hp, but only a few for low rpm torque. Look for a good 2-1 pipe, like V&H or Supertrapp. Avoid true dual pipes like the plague.

The stock carb is really all you need. Just tune it properly and it can make gobs of torque.

Pick the right cam. Chain or gear, your choice. I'v heard good things about the S&S 510. But do your research and get one specifically aimed at low end torque.

Ignition parts upgrades won't help. But changing the spark curve often will provide more power. Unfortunatly, that usually requires spending big bux on a new module. May not be worth it.

If you decide to open up the engine, an upgrade to more displacement is worth every penny. There's no replacement for displacement. You would probably want to increase compression at the same time. You'de want to get the effective cylinder pressures into the 190 range.

New heads are a waste of money. A huge porting job is also a waste of money. But you do want have the heads "cleaned up"; that means smooth out the ports a little bit by removing rough edges, casting flash, etc. DO NOT polish the intake port. A 3 or 5 angle valve job will provide a small improvement. If you're having the valves cut anyway, do that. Otherwise don't bother. Also, polish the chambers a little to prevent detonation with the higher cylinder pressures.

Except for the valve cut, these simple steps can easily be done in your garage with a few sanding rolls and a drill motor. No rocket science there. When I do head work on a V8, I disassemble the heads, polish the chambers, clean up the ports, then drop it off at the machine shop for decking, valve cuts and new guides. Then I bring it home and lap the valves, clean, and assemble. Then I wrap them in plastic until ready to go on the engine.

 
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