Time to upgrade a bit.....
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Club Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,542
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From: Central IL.
Time to upgrade a bit.....
OK guys, I have a completely (almost) stock, carbed 2000 Heritage. I do have a RSD A/C and V&H BSL's....but that is it.
I am getting a spare set of heads and cylinders to have reworked so I can just do a swap when I have everything. My questions to all of you guru motor heads is what should I be getting for this build? I really want something that is totally reliable and can run the "junk" gas that you sometimes have to run in the middle of nowhere. I do ride two up some, but not planning on any really long (over 200 miles) trips on this bike. Don't have the need for speed either, so.....
So help a guy out and give me a grocery list of what I need to get!
Thanks!
Jimmy
I am getting a spare set of heads and cylinders to have reworked so I can just do a swap when I have everything. My questions to all of you guru motor heads is what should I be getting for this build? I really want something that is totally reliable and can run the "junk" gas that you sometimes have to run in the middle of nowhere. I do ride two up some, but not planning on any really long (over 200 miles) trips on this bike. Don't have the need for speed either, so.....
So help a guy out and give me a grocery list of what I need to get!
Thanks!
Jimmy
Former Sponsor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 19,364
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Call up Big Boyz head porting and talk to them When I thought i was going to do my heads they recommended a true 9-6-1 if I remember correctly for the porting as I explained that reliability is the most important thing to me. http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/
They will take the time to help you figure out what you need.
Drew
They will take the time to help you figure out what you need.
Drew
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Club Member
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Central IL.
I am going to do all of the work on the bike(with the help of a buddy that has an awesome set of tools...lol). Having the pros do the head work and boring.....
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Joined: Dec 2007
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Our Stage II Heads
Andrews 37 set at 9.9 cr
Bore to 98"
Doc's Performance Tuning, in Minneola, Fla, just tuned this same EFI combo(w/D&D Fatcat) to 106/111, STD.
We set this up for the client, that lives in/around the Orlando area.
Strikes big torque very quickly, and holds it all the way out.
Simple, straightforward, reliable set-up.
Scott
Andrews 37 set at 9.9 cr
Bore to 98"
Doc's Performance Tuning, in Minneola, Fla, just tuned this same EFI combo(w/D&D Fatcat) to 106/111, STD.
We set this up for the client, that lives in/around the Orlando area.
Strikes big torque very quickly, and holds it all the way out.
Simple, straightforward, reliable set-up.
Scott
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,779
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From: san antonio
I would like to keep it as cheap as possible... not saying I am cheaping out either. I want "good" quality stuff, so I am not tearing it down again in a couple months.
I am going to do all of the work on the bike(with the help of a buddy that has an awesome set of tools...lol). Having the pros do the head work and boring.....
I am going to do all of the work on the bike(with the help of a buddy that has an awesome set of tools...lol). Having the pros do the head work and boring.....
That's a good, solid and dependable build. You could substitute Andrews TW37 cams for the 26's, either would be a good choice.
You can save money by replacing stock spring loaded tensioners; the old chain is "polished" from the previous mileage and new tensioners should last a long time but you should inspect them every 10K-12K miles for peace of mind. If budget will allow it, an upgrade to the "hybrid" cam plate conversion or the conversion to the '07 OEM cam plate setup would be a good idea. The improved oil pump is worht making the change. You just need to decide which one before you order cams; they are different for each cam plate.
Last edited by djl; Jan 24, 2011 at 10:18 PM.
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,624
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From: Newcastle, Ca.
Cheap and reliable - 95" kit, get take off 06+ heads, 26's or 204's, deck the heads to 82cc. You will want to check into the TB given your carb'd with later heads. I know you do not want to hear this - replace the bsl
Will get you ~100 tq. Very common build so you should be able to copy what others have done regarding carb jetting.
Here are 06 take offs in my hood for $200. They are not hard to find.
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/mcy/2165834840.html
The cam tensioner thing depends on your funds.
Incidentals include lifters, adj or stock push rods, inner cam bearings, gaskets... I'd go with stock rods as the heads are off anyway. It will save you over $100 and you never have to worry about loosening or incorrect adjustment.
Will get you ~100 tq. Very common build so you should be able to copy what others have done regarding carb jetting. Here are 06 take offs in my hood for $200. They are not hard to find.
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/mcy/2165834840.html
The cam tensioner thing depends on your funds.
Incidentals include lifters, adj or stock push rods, inner cam bearings, gaskets... I'd go with stock rods as the heads are off anyway. It will save you over $100 and you never have to worry about loosening or incorrect adjustment.
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Joe Kucinski
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Hmmm, 2 up, cheap and reliable... I'd say pull the valves out of the heads. Take a dremel and remove the shelf below the valve seats. Basically you just remove any aluminum that's a smaller diameter than the seats. That will get you roughly 10 percent more flow and it's easy and cheap. I would check your crank runout. If it's less than .002" TIR then go with gear drive cams. I'd recommend the Andrews TW21G's. Now I know your going cheap here but you put gear drives in and forget it. Pease of mind, just sayin... I would also put in bee hive springs if the new heads don't have them and spring loaded viton valve seals. Don't even go back with Harley's. The money saved on head porting will easily pay for the gear drive cams. As far as pistons, just go with a set of Wiseco 9/1 flat tops. Get the pistons before you bore so they know what to bore to. I would stay with the stock size head gasket for the reasons of crappy gas. This is basically what I have in my Road Glide and it pushes that barn door to 120 mph. Most importantly it will cruse 70 in sixth gear and still pull pretty hard without down shifting. I travel a lot so I'm way over on the reliability side of the spectrum. Everythings a compromise!
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,779
Likes: 2,609
From: san antonio
The OP already has a spare set of heads and cylinders but we don't know from what year. There is no need to go with Wiseco pistons; they are forged and require tighter fitment and are prone to become noisy on start up as the miles roll up. The SE cast flat tops are cheap and good product. Leave the head porting to the pros. The 21s would be fine in a bagger but the 26s are a better choice for a softail.
If you can afford to ugrade the cam drive system to gears or the new roller chain setup; that would be a good idea. Gear drives just don't make sense to me anymore with the new hydraulic tensioner/roller chain setup. You can't take advantage of the new oil pump with a gear setup unless you buy the OEM cam plate; you cannot buy the billet plate that is part of the "hybrid" conversion setup. The upgraded oil pump is reason enough to go the conversion route. By the time you buy the OEM cam plate and pump, you have spent more than half of what it will take to complete the package. The complete '07 OEM cam plate upgrade will cost about $370 from a discount H-D dealer and you would need conversion cams, Andrews N style, with the OEM plate. Gear drive setup and cams will cost about the same. If you are doing the work yourself, you should note that the OEM setup is much easier to work with; no gears/bearings to press on/off. If you do go gears, you should definitely check crank runout but I have run gears with as much as .003" TIR with no issues; they are just a PITA to setup.
Your bike, your money, your decisions; all of the above is JMHO.
If you can afford to ugrade the cam drive system to gears or the new roller chain setup; that would be a good idea. Gear drives just don't make sense to me anymore with the new hydraulic tensioner/roller chain setup. You can't take advantage of the new oil pump with a gear setup unless you buy the OEM cam plate; you cannot buy the billet plate that is part of the "hybrid" conversion setup. The upgraded oil pump is reason enough to go the conversion route. By the time you buy the OEM cam plate and pump, you have spent more than half of what it will take to complete the package. The complete '07 OEM cam plate upgrade will cost about $370 from a discount H-D dealer and you would need conversion cams, Andrews N style, with the OEM plate. Gear drive setup and cams will cost about the same. If you are doing the work yourself, you should note that the OEM setup is much easier to work with; no gears/bearings to press on/off. If you do go gears, you should definitely check crank runout but I have run gears with as much as .003" TIR with no issues; they are just a PITA to setup.
Your bike, your money, your decisions; all of the above is JMHO.