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The CV carb is fine, just need to rejet. Going from the BSLs to true duals is like jumping from the frying pan to the fire. TDs wll hurt your bottom end on a 95" build, they are better suited for 107" and larger builds. Look at some dyon sheets and you will see the low end torque dip. Take a look at the 2:1 systems with ghost pipes; D&D and Thunderheader both offer them and there may be others.
On the CV I would recommend a .040" shim under the stock needle instead of the 88 sportster needle. I say this because I have a wide band O2 sensor and gauge set up on my Road Glide. I can see what's heppening while I ride and the sportster needle is too rich. It will run fine, especially when it's cold, but it's really too rich. I found the .040" shim worked well along with a 42 slow speed jet. For the record I'm at 600' above sea level. Now this only works if your intake seals are not leaking at all! After fighting intake leaks for a whole Summer I designed my own and they work great! I hope to put them on the market some time this year.
As for the exhaust I too highly recommend a 2:1. I have experience with the Bassani Road Rage, (loud), and the Supertrapp. (loud as you want it to be, or not). Both of these wake up the low end.
As far as cams, as mentioned I like the 21's but if you use the .030" head gasket and the 26's w/ 9:1 flat tops, I agree that's also a good combo. I only suggested the 21's because of the two up riding. Sound like your ready to go have fun!
Glad it finally made it over to you!!
BTW, as said, that OE CV carb will work just fine for your build.
If you send it, we'll base-line jet it for you.
Scott
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