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I was talking with my mechanic a couple days ago and he told me that letting a motor sit and idle while it warms up is not a good idea. This is because at low RPM's, the crankshaft bearings rattle a little more than they should which causes the crankshaft to get banged around. He told me to fire up the bike with the choke on, and drive off. Just don't ride it hard when you first start off. He also used the example of drag bikes which aren't warmed up at all and they get raced when they are cold.
Have you guys heard this as well? I figured because the motor is comprised of two different metals, that they warm up at different rates, and since the evo block is 20% zinc, it makes it much softer than other motors and easier to damage if you run it cold.
This was discussed awhile ago but here goes. Let it run for about a minute just to warm the oil a little then take off gently until you can ride without the choke on. Same with fuel injected bikes except you don't have to worry about the choke. Just take it easy for a couple blocks to let everything warm up. In the winter you have to let it warm up a little longer or it will buck and act up until it warms up.
I usually start mine, put on my gloves and helmet, get on, and get going. Probably warms up a minute to minute and a half. If this is bad policy, oh well......
I've heard warm it up for a minute or two with the primer on then drive off adjusting the primer as you go. This gets the oil up to temp faster than just sitting idling at 1500 rpm for however long it takes.
What I do with my bike is start it with the primer on then a few seconds later let it idle at 1500 rpm with the throttle lock on (primer off) for a minute or two (a few minutes in the cold, below 40 f.) then I just drive off and it seems to warm up much quicker than just waiting. Seems to me the faster the oil gets up to temp the faster it does it's job of protecting vital components.
Just fire it up and go ride, your not going to hurt a thing. I've heard 50 million explanations about how you need to do this or that and its all BS. In todays age of technology with alloy pistons, coated cylinders and oils that can go 15k between changes you can surely just fire it up and go. I have never warmed a bike up, well with the exception of winter (in the past 20 years)when you have no choice. Never had an engine problem related to my practice. So I guess it just boils down to personal practice. If you must then by all means do warm your bike up, but your mechanic's explanation is total $&!t. If his story held any weight at all, every guy that sets his idle below 1000 rpm would be scrapping a crank bearing and thats not the case at all.
The practice of warming the motor actually stems from decades ago when motors had steel cylinders and heavy pistons. Everything was set up around HUGE tolerances and the temp had to be brought up to prevent piston slap/seizures. Those days are long gone.
I have a Dakota Digital guage in my fairing and when I ride the bike, I can start the bike and will ride it for 30/40 miles before the oil is fully warmed up=220*
I sh it you not[8D]
my sporty i lock the throttle at about 1500 till i get my helmet on and backed out of the garage. my glide i let it warm up till the fast idle goes away ( only cause it souds like crap when it idles too fast)
Hey Mike just blip the throttle once and it will drop right down off fast idle, He He.. Seriously, everone has their own routine, but there isn't a need now days.
Mark, the oil temp ONLY affects how rapidly impurities are evap'd off and has no affect on engine performance or the bikes overall lubrication. Just handy nice to know info.
It really is funny how old practices can linger on. For example how many folks change their oil every 3000 miles? Why? the older bikes used an integrated tranny/clutch/engine, all sharing the same oil, tranny gears and clutch plates mashing the oil molecules to pieces, and gas washing past pistons. But then take the TC motor. All three are serviced separately and are not subjected to the abuse of years past. So technically you should be able to double or even tripple the change interval. Amsoil CLAIMS you can run their oil for 15k simply replacing the filter at the mid point. Have you wondered why? See the above statement about separating oils. Now I'm not suggesting that you go 9000 miles without changing your oil but consider this. I had an 88 Sporty that I picked up new when I was in the UK. Saved a bunch of money on the purchase because it was tax free. Rode that Sporty for 120k and NEVER changed the oil/filter/airfilter/plugs/nothing. I replaced the chain 3 times once under warranty. It started every time, shifted fine and ran at speeds of 85-90 for extended mileage almost daily (normal highway speeds there). My maintenance practice consisted of tightening loose bolts and replacing worn out tires/brake pads. The bike sat out in the rain and was ridden in every type of weather. Lucky??? Maybe, but maybe not. Just food for thought.
ps.. My glide is on a very strict maintenance schedule for oils every 5k (synthetics).
I start her up with the choke all the way out, put my lid and gloves on, push in the choke about 1/2 way, jump on and ride. She gets about 30 seconds with the choke out full, and I push in the choke as I ride. It's usually pushed all the way in after about 5 minutes. It does take longer on colder days.
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