Can I turn Engine over without spark plugs?
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,156
Likes: 27
From: Texas
Can I turn Engine over without spark plugs?
I'm in the process of doing a big bore kit & cams on my Ultra Classic.
After I get everything back together, I'd like to crank the engine without it starting, to get oil flowing through the engine, oil pump, cam compartment, etc., so I plan to leave the spark plugs out.
Question:
Will cranking the motor without spark plugs damage the electronic ignition?
I'd planned to cover the ends of the spark plug wire boots with electrical tape so that they can't "short-out" to any of the surrounding metal.
Thanks!
After I get everything back together, I'd like to crank the engine without it starting, to get oil flowing through the engine, oil pump, cam compartment, etc., so I plan to leave the spark plugs out.
Question:
Will cranking the motor without spark plugs damage the electronic ignition?
I'd planned to cover the ends of the spark plug wire boots with electrical tape so that they can't "short-out" to any of the surrounding metal.
Thanks!
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,156
Likes: 27
From: Texas
Perhaps a jumper from them to a frame or engine bolt?
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,156
Likes: 27
From: Texas
Thanks!
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,773
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From: san antonio
You need to remove the spark plugs and the fuel pump fuse. Fuel will wash the cylinder walls while you are "cranking away". Ground the plugs; jumper to ground is fine. You can "crank away" but will run the battery down before you get any oil pushed up top.
A better approach would be to pour about 1/2 quart of oil into the crankcase before you install the top end; this will feed the scavenge side of the pump. With plugs out and trans in N, hit the starter with short bursts, maybe 5 or 6; just enough to get some oil to the supply side of the pump. Install plugs and fuel pump fuse and light her up. Valve train will rattle for a minute or so but no harm done. Heat cycle for a minute; let cool; heat cycle for another minute or two; let cool. If no weird noises, good oil pressure and no leaks, take a short spin, a couple of times around the block. If all is good, hit the road to seat the rings; if done properly, they will seat in the first 50 miles. JMHO
A better approach would be to pour about 1/2 quart of oil into the crankcase before you install the top end; this will feed the scavenge side of the pump. With plugs out and trans in N, hit the starter with short bursts, maybe 5 or 6; just enough to get some oil to the supply side of the pump. Install plugs and fuel pump fuse and light her up. Valve train will rattle for a minute or so but no harm done. Heat cycle for a minute; let cool; heat cycle for another minute or two; let cool. If no weird noises, good oil pressure and no leaks, take a short spin, a couple of times around the block. If all is good, hit the road to seat the rings; if done properly, they will seat in the first 50 miles. JMHO
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,156
Likes: 27
From: Texas
I haven't really studied the Harley "oiling" system, other than it is a dry sump with a remote oil tank.
Does the oil pump initially pull oil from the tank or crankcase?
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: san antonio
Just to be sure I'm understanding you correctly, you're saying that I should pour a 1/2 quart of oil directly into the crank case before I install the new cylinders, pistons, heads and rocker boxes?
I haven't really studied the Harley "oiling" system, other than it is a dry sump with a remote oil tank.
Does the oil pump initially pull oil from the tank or crankcase?
I haven't really studied the Harley "oiling" system, other than it is a dry sump with a remote oil tank.
Does the oil pump initially pull oil from the tank or crankcase?
If you don't have a service manual, you should get one and read it.
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Texas
How dare you tell me to follow instructions! Real men don't need no instructions! 
I actually bought a brand new 2011 Owner's Manual but haven't had the time to study it much (actually, it's still in the protective plastic wrapper). I figured it was easier to ask dumb questions here on the forum than to actually read the manual.
Thanks for the information on how the oil pump works.
P.S. You've inspired me to take off the cover and start reading the manual. I don't need to appear no dumber that I already is.
I actually bought a brand new 2011 Owner's Manual but haven't had the time to study it much (actually, it's still in the protective plastic wrapper). I figured it was easier to ask dumb questions here on the forum than to actually read the manual.
Thanks for the information on how the oil pump works.
P.S. You've inspired me to take off the cover and start reading the manual. I don't need to appear no dumber that I already is.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
The normal way to index a Harley motor is in highest gear and turn rear tire with spark plugs out. I assume you will be doing that when you line index marks of gears and such. Sure you will use some type of assembly lube. At leas motor oil and grease on sleeve bearings. When it's all back together just roll the tire a few dozen turn and then start it. No big deal. However anytime you crank it with starter on electronic ignition, ground the plugs. 50k volts needs to go somewhere. Just what manual says. I personally would not worry about it. Oil will be flowing before bearing dry. Harley's do not require pressure for roller bearings. There small designed pressure is just to insure oil gets all over engine. Worst case is a lifter will click. And I know they are loud when they do.
