Basic cam install question
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 152
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From: brockton ma
Basic cam install question
I looked at buying a cam from fueling parts and it says it can be used with stock pushrods and everything else.
Does anyone do this? I would like to install the cams without much cost as pushrods are over 200$ and even the install tool is 100$
Does anyone do this? I would like to install the cams without much cost as pushrods are over 200$ and even the install tool is 100$
You can find adjustable pushrods for about 135.00 and you can get away with bending a screw driver 90deg to install the pushrod cover clips which you still have to do anyways so you can get to the lifters to hold them up while you remove and install the cams.
I think it's easier just to cut the factory pushrods and leave the top end buttoned up myself.
Last edited by GaugeMods; May 8, 2013 at 02:39 PM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 152
Likes: 1
From: brockton ma
I think I will go that route. Now im just trying to figure out what cam to get
I like the knight prowler ones. I dont know too much but im torn between the tw-222, tw-555, and tw-777 leaning more between the first two.
I ride mostly in the lower rpm range, 2500-4000 rpm mostly. What would be the best bet?
I like the knight prowler ones. I dont know too much but im torn between the tw-222, tw-555, and tw-777 leaning more between the first two.
I ride mostly in the lower rpm range, 2500-4000 rpm mostly. What would be the best bet?
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
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From: san antonio
The 222 would be the better choice of the cams you listed.
If retaining the OEM pushrods/lifters, take care to note the location of each pushrod and lifter and replace them in the original position. Due to manufacturing tolerance, if you randomly install the OEM pushrods and lifters, you could introduce some valve train lash that will generate valve train noise that you don't currently have. I know, sounds OTT but when you read as many posts as I do where someone changes cams only with no other changes and finds new valve train noise after the install, IMHO, it wouldn't hurt to mark pushrods and lifters as they are removed and put them back in the same place.
If retaining the OEM pushrods/lifters, take care to note the location of each pushrod and lifter and replace them in the original position. Due to manufacturing tolerance, if you randomly install the OEM pushrods and lifters, you could introduce some valve train lash that will generate valve train noise that you don't currently have. I know, sounds OTT but when you read as many posts as I do where someone changes cams only with no other changes and finds new valve train noise after the install, IMHO, it wouldn't hurt to mark pushrods and lifters as they are removed and put them back in the same place.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,464
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From: Rouses Point, N.Y.
I agree 100% with djl if your running in the lower rpm the tw222 will be a good cam for u. after I install the tw 555 cams after the first roadtest I knew it needed more compression it had a soft spot between 2000 --- 2800 rpms after that it pulls like hell.
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That cam wants near 9.8 cr to optimize, that is why those 103"s really get up on their toes with those 222's.
The 96"ers here get the Andrews 48's.
Scott
The 96"ers here get the Andrews 48's.
Scott
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Mpls, MN
Also tubes can be held up with the little S clips you get on the chains of florescent lights and rubber bands.
Hook the S clip on to the bottom of the tube and the rubber band around anything it'll stay on.
Al
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 152
Likes: 1
From: brockton ma
The 222 would be the better choice of the cams you listed.
If retaining the OEM pushrods/lifters, take care to note the location of each pushrod and lifter and replace them in the original position. Due to manufacturing tolerance, if you randomly install the OEM pushrods and lifters, you could introduce some valve train lash that will generate valve train noise that you don't currently have. I know, sounds OTT but when you read as many posts as I do where someone changes cams only with no other changes and finds new valve train noise after the install, IMHO, it wouldn't hurt to mark pushrods and lifters as they are removed and put them back in the same place.
If retaining the OEM pushrods/lifters, take care to note the location of each pushrod and lifter and replace them in the original position. Due to manufacturing tolerance, if you randomly install the OEM pushrods and lifters, you could introduce some valve train lash that will generate valve train noise that you don't currently have. I know, sounds OTT but when you read as many posts as I do where someone changes cams only with no other changes and finds new valve train noise after the install, IMHO, it wouldn't hurt to mark pushrods and lifters as they are removed and put them back in the same place.
Was cheaper than I thought it would cost, about 570 with shipping, and now I can get fuelmoto maps for my power vision
