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Rush slip-on baffle remove/replace

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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 12:20 PM
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Default Rush slip-on baffle remove/replace

Looking for advice from anyone that has changed the baffles in their Rush mufflers. Any tips on the best way to remove the old baffles, things I should or shouldn't do, etc. Will I need to remove the slip-ons or can you change the baffles with them mounted? Thanks for all replies!
 
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Old Jul 15, 2013 | 10:37 AM
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http://www.rushracingproducts.com/hd...structions.pdf
http://www.rushracingproducts.com/hd...structions.pdf

If you have two bolts securing the baffle (current touring baffle design for past 3-4 years) it can be done with mufflers on bike. Warming them up before removal helps and penetrating oil for really stubborn ones. Do not wiggle left and right, pull straight out while twisting. That helps prevent the remaining baffle matting from bunching up and getting stuck. If you have any issues please email sales@rushracingproducts.com or call our office to speak with a tech. Thanks for choosing Rush!
Ryan
 
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Old Jul 15, 2013 | 03:58 PM
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Ryan- Thanks for the reply. My bike is an '06 Street Bob, only appears to be (1) bolt holding the baffle in (baffles #143412). Is the procedure different for baffles with (1) bolt?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 05:27 AM
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First attempt was a no-go using WD-40, picked up a can of PB Blaster penetrating oil (in the spray can) and after warming them and repeatedly spraying and pulling they slowly began to release, took about 2 hours but I did get them out.
The new baffles went in easily. I went from 2.25 to 1.75, sounds pretty much the same just not as loud and that was my goal.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 11:39 AM
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Glad to hear everything worked out! Thanks for the update.
Ryan
 
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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 05:29 PM
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Default Thanks for your help, Ryan

Originally Posted by Rush Racing Products
http://www.rushracingproducts.com/hd...structions.pdf
http://www.rushracingproducts.com/hd...structions.pdf

If you have two bolts securing the baffle (current touring baffle design for past 3-4 years) it can be done with mufflers on bike. Warming them up before removal helps and penetrating oil for really stubborn ones. Do not wiggle left and right, pull straight out while twisting. That helps prevent the remaining baffle matting from bunching up and getting stuck. If you have any issues please email sales@rushracingproducts.com or call our office to speak with a tech. Thanks for choosing Rush!
Ryan
A shout out to Ryan. Thanks for your help in trying to get out my baffles. Although I couldn't get them out and stretched the baffles in the process, it's nice to know there are still companies out there that take the time to back up their products.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2015 | 03:32 PM
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I just did mine before leaving for the rally. Left the mufflers on the bike. Removed the 2 bolts and used some WD40 and they came out no problems. Had one stubborn bolt on the right side that the head wanted to strip. I used a pair of vice grips and was careful not to scratch the muffler.
I just did the staggered baffle that Rush is recommending if you have no mods to your bike. This is supposed to help force more exhaust gas out the left side. I did 2.50 on the right and 3.0 on the left. Rush said this could help a little with the heating. I don't have Stage 1 on my 2012 FLHTK. Notice no problems with this set up on the way to Sturgis. I still am looking to replace the whole exhaust in future to do away with the cat.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2015 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by roadrage12
I just did mine before leaving for the rally....
....I just did the staggered baffle that Rush is recommending if you have no mods to your bike. This is supposed to help force more exhaust gas out the left side. I did 2.50 on the right and 3.0 on the left. Rush said this could help a little with the heating. I don't have Stage 1 on my 2012 FLHTK. Notice no problems with this set up on the way to Sturgis. I still am looking to replace the whole exhaust in future to do away with the cat.
Those large baffles will be very loud and you'll have no back-pressure if you de-cat. I had 2.5's and went down to 2". Got some low-end torque back.
 
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