Is anyone running the Cala’s High Performance oil and scavenger pumps on their BT Flatheads ?
I’d love to hear everyone’s opinion...

 

I looked it up. Is the scavenge pump up to the task to take it back to the tank?

 

They claim 40% better return flow
I guess what I was really wondering...are other modifications necessary for the additional pressure ?

 

You dont need pressure just some flow and Im not sure its lacking to begin with or if more is a benefit. I dont like to believe self-serving claims from vendors who are motivated to sell the part.

You're only feeding the crank rollers, crank case pressure forces oil mist up past the solid lifters through the lifter block slot into the valve covers. The pump I saw on the site was the oil pump not the scavenge pump so Im not sure how the oil pump has 40% more return flow.

 

Harley is a wheel barrow its not the best in its original state - when you try and fix what is actually not broken you will be into more then you asked for in cash out lay after the adventure explodes - i dont care who says what about the latest and greatest - its 75 years old with parts it came with and its still works

you want to play i know better - buy an effen Twinkie and have at it - no one will actually give a **** what you do to it no matter how many times - unless your from canada - then everyone’s knows what going to happen next - its like a hillbilly red neck with a box of hammers and an 18 pack of beer -

hold my beer - watch this

 

If only my flathead was as powerful, reliable and oil tight as a Midnight Pearl Road King Twinkie .....sigh.....

 

They sell both the feed and the scavenger pump.
Like I said in my introduction I’m a rookie Flathead engine builder but a fairly experienced car motor builder, on a hot rod motor oil control is key so
after reading some of Dick Linn's writings I assumed these pumps would be popular.
I’m not trying to impress anyone with my knowledge of Flatheads because as of now I know very little about them, that’s why I joined this forum to learn from experienced Harley flathead builders like yourselves.

 

Look to flat head ford engine mods for any power improvements you can then apply to these engines. The 80 inch engine had relieved cylinders around the valves, 74 did not. As for oiling if you buy both pumps it stands to reason the increased oil supply will be taken care of, rod side clearance and crank end play will be the most important spec to prevent over-oiling your cylinders. I didn't see if the repop cases are running baffles below the pistons which was to control the over-oiling on a stock engine with a stock pump.

 

[QUOTE=hellonewman;I didn't see if the repop cases are running baffles below the pistons which was to control the over-oiling on a stock engine with a stock pump.[/QUOTE]

No one cares ever a little bit you own a Twinkie thing

so if i were to infer logic - and only been doing this 2 weeks now -

baffles were added because the stock pump has too much volume and the excess oil creates an issue because the original piston rings were one piece style

they then came out with a 3 piece oil ring in 5 / 32 compression ( second attempt they sort of got it right with 1/ 16 compression rings ) to bring the engine forward into this century setting the piston at .004 loose - while Indian 80 inch uses a .005 to .006 but it has more compression and y — they added stroke and the piston pops out the top of the jug but the head is relieved to be out of the way - overhead engines were just happing at this time period pre war for cars and bikes

you owned a flat head if you were riding or driving —

i have no experience with Harley 74 or 80 inch mods other then what they came with - i have always shied away from modding them for a reason - been doing this too long seen the mistakes many times including strokers - ahhhh NO dont go that was - be happy with a slug in the mud

IF i said IF - i were to do those mods withthe pump that will make more in and out and knowing a flat head is lean in oil in the valve and spring area - i would machine the new cast iron valve guides ( caution in using anything else ) set at .0035 intake and .0045 exhaust - book i have sayes wear limit is .025 <<< cant even believe that - and i would install rubber seals on the valve guides -

Indian does not really apply but it does in what is done in my shop - we take it another step directly behind and in the center of the Indian lift pins we drill a small hole in the block dead center of the pin at a slight up angle - this has crankcase fluid and air pressure to send more oil to the valves and lift pins and guides - Indian has adapted the lift pins with spiral cuts totally around the pin to aid in the lubing of the valves and springs making seals a thing to have in place

and yes the oil pumps both types cast iron and alloy are made to be made to be rebuilt - 1948 on is a way better system and its brand new when done just the covers stay

apples to apples - they were from the same mind set in engineering yea different but very much on the same ideas - i prefer the Indian in every way as i have owned everything and ridden everything being around this since in was a kid and push home a 1920s Indian scout in my early teens - no never got it to run and my wonderful mother push it out to the street while i was at school one day about a year later - today i only own around 10 bikes maybe more my 1948 Indian chief my favorite of all time

 

John, your Indian is gorgeous, it looks like a two wheeled voluptuous women, very nice.
I may have given you guys the wrong impression of what I had in mind on this project.
I don’t plan on hot rodding the motor but rather to make it as reliable and long lasting to the best of my ability, I want a good looking bike built to my style that I can putt into town on for a burger and a beer at Johnnys.
For me, it’s all about the building, I love doing everything myself.