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Just replaced my rotors and pads. Front brakes are a bit soft and the rear is super soft. Cannot lockup the rear if I had to (non-ABS).
I used Galfer rotors on the front, and EBC floating on the rear. Lyndall Gold Plus on the front and Z on the rear. Previously I had EBC HH front and rear on the stock rotors.
I used the reverse fill/syringe method to fill the fluid. Used before and seemed to work perfect. Front might be ok, but the rear I had to bleed. Feels like I didn't get it this last round - will bleed again. I am concerned that on the rear I may have let some brake fluid drip down onto the pads. Is that a deal breaker? Could that be the issue on the rear?
Anyone had similar and found resolution? Surely the pads would not feel that much different (my bike is not safe to ride just now). While the pads say no break-in (not sure about rotors), I did some breaking-in this evening, though I couldn't get far enough away from traffic for a full session. Not much improvement.
When I've done brakes and they have felt a bit soft, bleeding them again has always taken care of the problem. That's just my experience, but think it very well maybe what's causing your problem too.
I know on the front brakes you can hold the brake lever as tight as you can to the throttle grip, tie a rope or put a zip tie around it and keep it like that for 24 hours and it should force any air out. You should have firmer brakes after that. Might work for the rear brakes as well.
In addition to all of the other suggestions I would recommend getting some brake clean and hosing down the pads that got brake fluid on them. There is also a whole 'nuther procedure for "setting" the new pads.
I usually lay some med grit sandpaper on a flat surface and sand the new pads down just to rough them up a bit , no break in required . Yes , re bleed your brakes , sounds like there still could be air in the line . Check your cylinders and clean them up too , if you haven't , a flat shoelace and brake fluid will work great .
Sometimes, its kind of rare but does happen is once the brake pistons get pushed farther into the caliper because of the thicker pads the square cut o-ring will grip the piston and retract it when the brake is released. The piston is supposed to slide in the o-ring. I would try bleeding but if no more air comes out that is something to consider
So today, I bled again using a Mityvac. Drew about half the container full of fluid through the lines from the master cylinder. Only saw a few series of very small air bubbles. Pedal is more firm (maybe not like it was) and I still have a difficult time locking up the rear (but much better than yesterday). I will ride it carefully for a bit to see if it improves.
On the front I tied down the brake lever overnight. Much improved and roughly normal. Might also need a bit of wear-in.
With a pad and rotor change should I expect the brakes to feel different? Is it normal? Not enough personal experience on motorcycles.
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