I am trying to use a 1999 front wheel on my 2007 HD dyna.[/align]The older style wheel uses a 3/4" ID sealed bearing.[/align]The new set up is of course 1" bearing. I am wondering ifthere is a bearing that will fit in the older wheel and match its OD yet still give me a 1" ID?
I always assumed the OD had to be larger on a 1" Harley bearing than a 3/4" harley bearing?
thanks, mike[/align]

 

The wheel is unusable unless you take it to a machine shop and bore out the center for the 1.25" wheelbearing spacer. The bearings are the same 52mm, the rub comes into play when you try to put in the spacer. It will not go. It would be cheaper to buy a brand new carbon fiber wheel than to rebore the wheel out. I had to do that one evening at the shop to get a friend on the road the next morning. Forget about it.

 

Too late buddy. I have this wheel sitting here all beautiful and I have to use it as its the wheel for me.
To make matters worse, my dumb *** was wrong and its the old timken set up with tapered bearing.
I see what you mean on the center of the wheel. The hole measures 1.125" so you would have to machine a spacer with a very thin wall OR, my thought was a two piece spacer with a flanged end to match the inner race dimension and then it is machined down to the 1.125" dimension to go through the wheel.
BUT, that doesnt mean I'm going to find a bearing that will fit it.
The bearing would have to be way unusual and have a 1" ID and an OD of around 1 25/32". That would be a mighty small bearing area. Your thoughts??
Thanks, mike

 

all balss and a few others make sealed bearing kits for that wheel, you might want to check it out, might have what your looking for.....

 

As for you changing over your tapered bearing to a 1" (axle) sealed bearing (to your 1" axle), there is no way to that that I am aware of with the use of the spacer needed. I only use All ***** products in my products I make & I will recheck with them as to the availability of the product mentioned above. Yes, there is sealed bearing conversion kits for the 99 and below for 3/4" wheels, however, I do not believe there is any to convert over to a 1". The bearing cup is too small. I could be wrong as I only make brand new carbon fiber wheels and I do not deal with making stuff to work. Bottom line no 1” to fit your wheel, none, nada.

You may wish to rethink this project over once again. A better but not good approach would be making a 3/4" slip fit axle than thread both ends and make threaded collars to thread over both sided.

You would have to mill a flat so assembly / disassembly is possible. One side must be extended longer than the axle as you would need to make a hole to facilitate a piece of roundstock. This is so you can get your wheel off the axle. You would have to keep one side of the collar on say the left side (example to visualize), held with the bolts. Than loosen the right side with the hole to free the axle spacers and wheel (get it loose). Unbolt both axle keepers and drop the wheel. Done.

Here is what we do to make our Wideglide inverted fork conversions for Harley’s. Notice the axle assembly. We only use round hollow alloy for our axles. There is no material available for the ¾” axle in hollow so solid stock is your only choice.

Now for the next problem. Making a location ring to fit around the bearing housing collar. As you have found out, you need to address the rotors. With polished 11 ½” selling for around $45 + shipping, this would be a cheaper option than making a locating ring. Do not attempt it without this support. If bad things happen it would suck having your front wheel bind during operation.

I will get right back with you on the wheel bearing conversion ¾” tapered wheels to sealed 1" axle bearing. I do not have any more clearer photos for this post, sorry.

In my oppinion, it will be much cheaper in the end just to sell the wheel and buy a new one. We work in this field eveery day, just a thought for you.

[IMG]local://upfiles/29413/97830250784C40859AEBD4D22CAA2895.jpg[/IMG]

 

Very very helpful and a wonderful read. Thank you much.
Let me ask you a question.
1. Do you think the conversion bearing in a 3/4" sealed bearing is strong enough for our wheels in general? Or do you feel the 1" is neccessary?
When you use the 3/4" sealed bearing kit to replace the older Timken set up, the overall bearing OD is smaller than our regular oem bearings @ 3/4" or 1" 52MM OD.

2. I love your idea of the 2/3 piece axle, very ingenious. Does it have any merit this idea. It could be used with the stock Timken Tapered bearing with 3/4" ID OR the new replacement 3/4" ID sealed bearing.

3. I wonder if its possible to just change out the hub and keep the wheel. Its the wheel I'm partial to and the hub is bolt on and off as you know. The wheel company is CarriageWorks and they have apparently stopped making MC wheels. But if I could source a late model hub in a 4.5" or 5.5" width and a 1" bearing set up that fit the wheel, OR Icould still get one from Carriage, it would seem to solve the problem. What I dont know is if some of these wheel hubs have interchangable bolt patterns that would work. For instance, Revtec, Xtreme Machine, PM, etc. Maybe something esle will fit it.
Thank buddy, Mike



[quote]ORIGINAL: FastHarley

As for you changing over your tapered bearing to a 1" (axle) sealed bearing (to your 1" axle), there is no way to that that I am aware of with the use of the spacer needed. I only use All ***** products in my products I make & I will recheck with them as to the availability of the product mentioned above. Yes, there is sealed bearing conversion kits for the 99 and below for 3/4" wheels, however, I do not believe there is any to convert over to a 1". The bearing cup is too small. I could be wrong as I only make brand new carbon fiber wheels and I do not deal with making stuff to work. Bottom line no 1” to fit your wheel, none, nada.

You may wish to rethink this project over once again. A better but not good approach would be making a 3/4" slip fit axle than thread both ends and make threaded collars to thread over both sided.

You would have to mill a flat so assembly / disassembly is possible. One side must be extended longer than the axle as you would need to make a hole to facilitate a piece of roundstock. This is so you can get your wheel off the axle. You would have to keep one side of the collar on say the left side (example to visualize), held with the bolts. Than loosen the right side with the hole to free the axle spacers and wheel (get it loose). Unbolt both axle keepers and drop the wheel. Done.

Here is what we do to make our Wideglide inverted fork conversions for Harley’s. Notice the axle assembly. We only use round hollow alloy for our axles. There is no material available for the ¾” axle in hollow so solid stock is your only choice.

Now for the next problem. Making a location ring to fit around the bearing housing collar. As you have found out, you need to address the

 

1. Do you think…3/4" sealed…. is strong enough?
Ans: In your case it will work. I do not remember the exact #’s but a 1” bearing has 40% (?) more surface area than a ¾”. 1” is Better but ¾” will work for you.

2. I love your idea… could be used?
Ans. The sealed bearing is a much better set up than the Timken IMO. Much harder to design the pre-loading necessary for the Timken.

3. I wonder…… change out the hub?
Ans: Your easiest and cheapest option if you can find a hub.
3-b. Maybe something else will fit it? Ans: I do not know as I only make my own products and design my carbon fiber wheels to fit a standard application using standard measurements only. Here is my solution, maybe you can use some of my ideas to help in your application. Good Luck!

[IMG]local://upfiles/29413/6CC9CCEC202E48BF87DFC06C6D9FB297.jpg[/IMG]

 

And maybe this photo for a close-up


[IMG]local://upfiles/29413/D64EA5BE64D140D198AFAF429A1B107D.jpg[/IMG]

 

You could make such an axle for me?
mike

 

We do production work. What that means is that we design, build fixtures than make a program for our own products. You can go to a local machine shop and get this done cheaply as there is not much to it. I believe you can walk in, give the measurements (blueprint) or take the bike there so they understand the problem, than make it. A foot long piece of round stock, and some scrap is all that it would take. Get a few NON-PLATED spacers so they can cut them and align your wheel. Good to go. About 1 hour worth of work minus R&R the wheel and jacking up the bike. You can go to a junk yard & get a scissor jack and weld on a light gauge piece of channel the width of the frame. Throw a piece of old carpeting or get a 2' piece of rubber baseboard used in vinyl flooring from Home Depot and cut & paste to protect the frame. Less than $20 + labor and you wind up with a good cool tool for the next project. Good Luck!!!