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Can the top of the triple tree be out of alignment? Are they assembled with key ways in them? My bars seem to be pulled to the right when going straight. It looks like about a half inch closer to tank on the right side. Bars seem to be lined up on the top of the risers.
I don't think so. The fork tubes align the top and bottom sections of the tree. The only key sort of thing is the nub on the neck that acts as a stop in each direction (too keep the tree from going to far in either direction and hitting the tank).
edit - to answer your second question about the key more specifically,... no, they just slap together on the neck and rely on the fork tubes for alignment
If I read your post correctly, you are saying, as you go straight down the road, you are having to steer to the right? That sounds like wheel alignment sort of issue to me
If it were the trees, it would have to be a seriously mis-manufactured upper tree... like the handlebar mounting holes not centered properly, something like that.
Thanks for the info, when I am going straight the bars and upper part of the tree are turned to the right, the right side is closer to the tank than the left side (if that makes sense) but the lower part of the tree seems to be ok, at least not as crooked. I loosened the risers on the tree and the bar clamp and pushed them to the left and retightened everything but still does the pull to the right thing. thought maybe the top was "OUT A KNOTCH" but must not be.
How do you do an alignment then.
Thanks
The service manual describes the technique for doing a rear wheel alignment, but if you search here or use Google, there are other techniques that involve a string, rubber band, hook, etc. I've heard this works better than the straight edge method in the SM.
What you are describing sounds odd though. I wonder if its a perspective thing that makes it look closer on one side to the other.
Is this bike still in its warranty period? Might consider taking it in if it is.
Don't know what year or model you have. I have a 1980 FXWG same problem about 1/2" I tried the hook & string deal. I also tried loosening everything and pulling to the left to realign the front. That also did not work.
The general consensus is , forks are slightly bent.
I bought a 2008 RK in May the alignment was perfect. I told the dealer to check it before delivering, as
my FXWG made me nuts. This week I noticed my RK is off abot 1/4" These front forks must be more fragile
than I thought. From what I read straightening the forks is not easy for a backyard mechanic.
I am taking my RK to the dealer and asking about this. I am going to get a fork brace for the FXWG, and
if that does not work. I am going to lean back further so I don't notice it. The ride and handling are fine.
If your handlebars are tilted, but when you look down the fork legs while riding, the lower "cans" appear to be in alignment, it's likely that your handlebars are bent, your mounts are just misaligned (rubber mounts) or one (or both) fork legs are bent. Rubber handle bar mounts can just be yanked back into alignment. The easiest (and cheapest) way to check fork tube straightness is to mark the back of the fork tubes with a marker, loosen the triple tree mounts, and turn the tubes exactly 180 degrees. If the misalignment has now reversed itself, the tubes are likely bent. Then turn one tube at a time to see if one or both tubes are bent.
It is possible for a triple tree to be bent, but more likely misaligned. To align the tree, loosen the lower clamp bolts, upper clamp bolts, and large steering stem nut (not the castle nut under the top triple tree). Most Harleys have a fork tube that bottoms in the top triple tree and will not slide out of the top, but check yours for sure before you go on to the next step. Now you can either pump the forks a few times (which will tend to align them as the tubes make more contact in the sliders) or manually hold the wheel and twist the handlebars until they are centered. At this point, 1. Tighten the lower clamp bolts. 2. Tighten the upper clamp bolts to spec without touching the handlebars or using them for leverage. 3. Loosen the lower clamp bolts and tap the lower triple tree down at both tube mounting locations with a plastic hammer. This releases any tension created when you drew the tubes up with the upper clamp. 4. Tighten the lower clamp bolts to spec. 5. Now that you have created a straight, rigid box structure between the fork tubes and triple tree, tighten the steering stem nut to 70 - 80 lbs/ft, again without touching the handlebars. At this point, your triple tree will be as straight as it's going to get.
Most likely just the shitty rubber bushings in the trees. I have had forks twist in the trees and had the lowers turn on me. Just gotta loosen everything up and straighten it out. When you tighten the axle you want to keep the lower clamp loose with the tire off the ground, tighten the axle nut then tighten the right side lower clamp. Retorque the axle nut and you'll be good.
You can tell if the front end is twisted just by looking at how the tire is centered between the forks or if it's crooked. If it looks straight then you probably just need to loosen the riser bolts, straighten the bars and retighten the riser bolts.
This has all been very helpful, its just, well, can any one tell me which eye I am supposed to use to determine whether or not they-the forks-are straight? I mean, I stand in front of the superbad-a$$ motorcycle & look it over, from twenty feet away & use each eye, seperately, by placing one hand over an eye & then the other over the other eye while removing my one hand from in front of my other eye they look sort of the same, don't they? But when I stand really close to it & do same the bike moves around on me. How does it do that? ArrrggHHHHH! Help!! Which eye am I supposed to use???
Ha ha... we all have one eye which is "dominant". To determine which eye is dominant, keep both eyes open and point to something that is about ten feet away. If you focus on the object, your pointing hand will be blurry, but try to point to an object that is small enough that you can actually cover the image with your finger, i.e., your horn, or the emblem on your tank. Now close one eye without moving your finger, then open it, and close the other eye.
With one of your eyes open, your finger will be clearly covering the object that you pointed to - this is your dominant eye (you process more visual information though this side of your brain). When you close the dominant eye and open your other eye, your finger seems to jump away from the object you were pointing at. All this has to do with angle of parallax - not important. What's important is that if you use your dominant eye, you'll be closer to accurate when eyeballing things, which should be just an estimate anyway.
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