i have a 05 rkc with 11,500 miles on it the rear tire looks fine top me but people say its time to change it i measured mine with a tread depth gauge and it reads 4/32 i checked a new one and it reads 10/32 is it due also measured the front it reads 4/32 and a new one is 5/32 should i do 1 or both tires.

 

From your measurements, I wouldn't worry yet, but plan on it soon. I have not replaced tires on my HD yet, but new tires made a HUGE difference on my old Speed Triple. Don't let them wear 'all the way'. As tires wear, it's easier to get flats, and handling in general will suffer.

 

You tire is alright for now. The minimum is 2/32" with the depth gauge. There are indicators on the tire that will tell you also.

I would not replace the front one at this point. You should get just about double the milage out of the front that you get from the rear. I change the front with every other rear.

Look on the sidewall, and you will see some little triangles with the point going toward the road surface of the tire. In this location on the tread you will find a raised up area down inside the tread. It looks like a little bump. When your tread is worn down even with this bump it is time for a new tire.

I have a picture of this. If you have trouble finding it, let me know and I'll post the pic.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Bill

 

Thank God!!! Something I can finally contribute to... (with thanks to all here from whom I've learned so much!!!).

From the Sports Car world...

Tire tread is only one indicator of tire condition. Tires used in the normal world have tread to drain away water from the interface of the tire surface and the road surface, without which a condition of hydroplaning would develop and adheision would be lost... biker gets a boo boo! On the otherhand, a completely slick tire in dry conditions is fine! Most people understand that.

What is often lost on folks is that tires must also be "sticky"... they have a degree of "hardness" or "softness" to their composition. Harder compounds wear better by don't "stick" that well... Softer compounds "stick" like glue (aren't THEY fun!!!) but may be good for only a few track "sessions". Our road tires are a compromise... You make your choice, (all things being equal) you get good grip and change tires more often, or you get so-so grip and better tire mileage.

Tires "age". Sunlight ages them, time itself ages them (just like it does some of us!!!), and heat ages them. As time, Sunlight, and "Heat Cycles" increases... otherwise good-looking tires will deteriorate and lose their ability to grip the road surface. The get "harder", although they still may have a fine amount of tread left. Tires deteriorate at a suprisingly fast rate. I wish I could remember and paste an article I read on another site, but the stats were really suprising and sobering!!!

I'm new at the two-wheeled (with a motor, anyway) thing, but I think I'll be changing my tires ever three years or so, perhaps even more often regardless of how the tread looks. Cheap Insurance as I really don't like leaking blood!!!

By the way. A tire's age begins when it is Manufactured... NOT when you buy it at the shop! Beware, Take Care!!! Auto tires can be several years old when they're sold, and dangerous. Be sure to read the date of manufacture code on the tire BEFORE you accept it!!!

Hope this adds a bit to the topic here!

Jim aka kiltiemon (All new cables go on this weekend, light systems upgraded with appropriate hardware, and a visit to the courthouse is projected the following week... Then I become yet ANOTHER "Duck in the shooting gallery"!!!)

 

Good advice kiltiemon. It also makes some sense to look at a possible change BEFORE a long trip. Doing it on the side of the road is not fun.

 

The tread on my tires looked pretty good after 12,000 miles, but I did notice I was experiencing loss of traction, especially on damp roads. I decided to change the tires. That seemed like a perfect time to put some nice wheels on too. Can't put nice wheels on without matching rotors and pulley can you? What the heck, why not do the chrome lower sliders at the same time. So $250 worth of tires turns into a nearly $3,000 project.

 

Hey Joe , I know one thing for sure , when you change out for new tires . For me i didn`t get the same amount of mileage that I got out of the ones that came on the bike new....... and its also ture 2 - back to 1- front.

 

I'm trying to figure out on my rear tire. Can you send a pic or post one of what the indicator looks like? I found the little error on the side of the tire but wasn't sure what the indicator actually looked like. I have 8300 on it now. thanks

 

Here is the pic. You can see the little triangle on the sidewall, and the dimple inside the tread.



Hope this helps.

Regards,

Bill

 

On my 2005 Heritage, I was at 10,500 miles before I began to get into the wear indicator. However, at 12,500 miles my factory Dunlop front tire began experiencing longitudinal cracking so I replaced it. The front still had plenty of tread, but I didn't feel safe riding on it. I've now got Metzler 880s front and back and the ride is smooth!

Edmo