Shitty weather today so I decided to get to work. My laundry list:

1) install Racetech springs and emulators.
2) vent blowby to atmosphere
3) replace melting CPS

So as is usual for me, I don’t take hardly a single damn picture of anything interesting (i know, who wants to see a post of only words?). But I had such a good time I wanted to share. The forks as I received them were terrible. Sticky, soft, just miserable. So off with the wheel, dropped both forks and used a 12v impact to pop off the damper tube screw. Pumped out the fluid which looked surprisingly ok, still had a red color too. Once empty, got the caps off, pulled the springs and dumped out the guts. Separated the slider and cleaned the gunk out of the bottoms of the sliders. Sadly, one was so bad I couldn’t get all the crud out. I expect it was hardened because I used a can of brake cleaner, a microfiber rag soaked in Dawn dishwashing liquid wrapped around a piece of 1/2” PVC pipe which I notched so it would have a grip on the rag when I spun it, nada. Couldn’t get it clean. The other one ended up sparkling. Very strange. Anyway, rebuild the fork - new bushings, seals, etc. set emulator valve springs preload, measured fluid level and set preload tubes. Reassembled.

Air cleaner was easy, bike has a SE backplate and K&N filter which I cleaned, then removed the blowby tube, cut a short length which I plugged on one side with a 3/8” bolt and hose clamp, then secured it back on the air cleaner backplate. Cut new hose and ran it down to a DK catch can. (Got a photo of that)…




Lastly I noticed the telltale drip of a melting CPS sensor, so I opened it up and sure enough, on its way out.




Decided to save $150 and got a MC-SPA3 made by Standard Motor Products for $50 instead of the lean angle equipped OEM one for $200. So my bike won’t shut off if tipped over. Oh well. Piece of cake to install, two screws, cut two zip ties, de-pinned the three way Deutsch connector (love them). Marked the position of the old one and swapped them out. Done. Started right up.

Corbin got me a Wall seat in three days which was nice. Did the risers and bars yesterday. Waiting on my Pirellis so I can get rid of 21 and get my Thunderstar on the front. Have a superbrace coming, and some 13.75 Ohlins for the rear. Then should be done for a while.




Got to get a money shot so I can add her to my Sig…

 

I bet she’s going to be a blast to ride!

love the color btw

 

off topic, but what do you have for an air cleaner setup? Is that the stock box? Is it modified at all? I have a ness big sucker, but I'm looking for something different.

 

It came with a H-D SE backplate and a K&N. I’m going to leave it for now I think.

 

I wouldn't have used a new crank sensor. IMO, it would have been better to got to a nosecone ignition and remove the old system. You can get an 2000i rebranded to ultima for $170. The unit has a trigger led that allows you to set the timing statically and will allow for any improvements you might want to do the the motor down the road.

 

Bike already has a SE (Selectable curve) ignition module. No need to waste another 120 when 50 fixed it.

 

My 14” Ohlins shocks and superbrace will be here tomorrow. My Night Dragon GT rear just showed up, and the front is scheduled for tomorrow. Depending on what time the tire shows, I’ll bring my NIB Thunderstar and the rubber to the shop and let them mount and balance. Once that’s on I’ll pull the rear wheel and let them mount that one as well as repack the bearings and replace seals.

Wondering: The new wheel came fully assembled with plastic caps over the bearings. Greased bearings sitting for 20 years. Should I bother to clean/repack them?

 

IIRC the SE one is a Dynatec 2000 external.

 

Yes, I believe that is correct as well. At least it looks very much like the 2000 I had on my other FXR from what I remember.

 

Last year after buying my FXR I located a 9 spoke cast rear take off that had been in a box for 20+ years.
Removed the seals and cleaned the bearings, and removed the dried grease from the hub.
Checked and set end play,repacked bearings, installed new seals. Then I knew everything was good.
So, yes, IMHO you should clean and repack, otherwise its 20 year old grease that is probably dried out.