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also its not uncommon to lose around 1-2 psi a month with air.. Less with Nitrogen, IMO that's the biggest advantage of putting in Nitrogen in the tires, which I don't do because I check my tires every so often and I have the compressor in the garage when needed.
I have a pressure gauge and a bicycle pump...I just check the tire pressure before every ride and adjust as needed. I use a blend of 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, 1% CO2 and other gases...works pretty well.
Does that hold true for both dino air and synthetic air? The good news is that neither one will void the warranty.
Do you mean that HD will start selling bikes with deflated tires?
I'm thinking more along the lines of an air station on each sideline with a prominent Bar and Shield logo - cause hey, you gotta make sure those ***** (with a Screamin' Eagle right next to the laces, of course) can be re-inflated whenever necessary...
Of course on the bike side, there will be a high end set of custom 'Flying Elvis' rubber that can be run at 15% reduced pressure and yield improved traction and stability when blowing out your opponent on those stoplight takeoffs. They'll only be sold in Indianapolis though.
This is something I wonder about. There's less tread in contact with the asphalt at any given time, but isn't that tread being pressed onto the asphalt with greater force? If so, does the increased pressure make up for the reduced surface area?
The weight of your vehicle is responsible for the "force" on the pavement. It would have nothing to do with the air in your tires.
All you need to do is get the tires to the pressure required for that brand/model tire, when the tire is cold. Seeing as it's a new bike I'm assuming that it has the original tires on it. Your owners manual will tell you what that pressure should be. Set it to that, with the tires cold. The next time you check pressures, do it when the tires are cold.
If you replace your tires then you go by the pressures stated by the tire manufacturer, not the manual.
I don't believe that this is true, otherwise the motorcycle mfg would simply tell you to use the tire mfg pressure as shown on the tire. The truth is that the motorcycle mfg has suggested the proper tire pressure based on the weight of the motorcycle, the tire sizes and the tire weight loading among other parameters.
My suggestion is to follow the motorcycle mfg Owners Manual regarding the appropriate tire pressures for the front and rear tires and based on whether you're ridng solo or carrying a passenger. Otherwise if you use the numbers on the tire sidewalls, you'll have the same pressures in both tires, in my judgement not a good idea. The other thing to keep in mind is to ALWAYS check the tire pressures when cold, not after you've put 50 fast miles in the twisties on them.
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The numbers on the tyres are the maximum pressure that the tyre is designed to manage. You obviously wouldn't use the same pressure in a very light vehicle as in a very heavy one, so the best pressure is advised by the motorcycle manufacturer rather than the tyre manufacturer.
The solution is so simple. Just have the referee....Err, I mean technician inspect the tires right before you ride. Once the bikes in the driveway and the tires have been checked, you can't bring the bike into the garage till the game is....I mean till you're done riding. The ref....Technician is fondling the tires every down...I mean stop, anyway. How can he not tell the tire pressure is low?
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