This looks to me like you're cam install is just fine. Timing marks look to be matched up well and you went by the book. Cam installation gone awry would equate to an engine that doesn't run correctly.

I believe this to be an issue with your throttle body connection. There are several threads about the pins in that connection fretting and making poor contact. When that happens, limp mode it is. I would suggest you remove the connection, use some compressed air to blow out the TB side and the wiring harness. Reconnect, but use dielectric grease on the connection.

See what happens.

Also, did you check for any diagnostic codes?

 

My thought exactly.....

Whatevs dood.

 

I think he was drunk AND tired!! (LOL)

 

The U1016 code relates to a electrical problem. Check all those plugs you unplugged and look for kinked wires or lose connections. You may need to reflash if all connections and wiring is good and the code stays. Check those fuses you disconnected. Use dielectric grease.

 

[quote/]
so I pulled on side start her up and it start normal , putt in in first gear and it wont go, it is like I am applying the rear brake while I am holding the throttle. I heard cluncking noise in my primary. then it shut off . I notice the cluch was to tight, it is weird, then start her up , same thing happen,
could it be the clutch or primary tensioner as I heard a couple time the clunking noise in that side but I rode it back for about 25 miles and no noise or anything

[/QUOTE]

I would pull the primary cover and get a good look in there. Have you ever replaced the clutch, stator, compensator, or primary chain tensioner?

 

When u did the cams did u turn the moter over by putting the bike in a tall gear and turning the rear wheel by hand?

 

check the fuel line and make sure it is in all the way into the connection. (assuming that you took the tank off) I have seen the line in just part way, won't pop out, and gets some fuel, but not enough pressure to let the bike get full rpm. I would disconnect it and re connect it

 

I did check the throttle body plug and it has already dielectric lube sine 2 weeks ago when i had problem with fuel filter.

Yes it is 2010 ultra classic.

I did clear the code and start it again and only code is 2020 wich ia according to electrical manual the rear speaker short out . Didnt check the woring yet. But gonna do it .didnt have time to do last couple time. I did open the primary and drain . It was stink. Checked the tenaioner everything looks good. I changed tge stator last year sine it was leaking in the plug.

I was going to load the original map then try to ride around the block and load new map again ... i hope it will fix the problem.

Tha k you guys . Sorry i am in my phone writing

 

Everything you touched i would go back and visible verify. I recently did Cam work and pulley swap. and had an issue went through a long list of checks but never did a visible look at the pushrods. For what ever reason the front exhaust pushrod came loose. So i suggest looking over everything.

 

well guys, came back from work , loaded the original map. and let it warm up well and I mean I want to make sure the bike is hot , the pv shows 318F, went for short ride around the block, about 2 miles or so and it ran well, got back to close my garage door and head up for long ride. before the long ride, I decided to give a try around the block new map for the cam, the bike felt a little strange as it wont go easy, anyway did go ahead and rode about half mile, am still next to my place, about half mile and it acted the same stopped and loaded the original again but it wont move at all . I said to my self let cool off a little then back to garage, about 10 minutes, I start it and it goes easy half way around the block next to stop sign and it felt heavy and it wont move again like it is braking. guess what while am holding the clutch lever should roll easy to park in side road, but it didn't , I stoped and put 4 flasher light and put it in neutral and checked I can move the bike , holly cough I couldn't move it at all, looked under saddlebag and the pad was like sticking to rotor , one of guys neighbur stopped by and asked if everything ok, then I explain and told him I think my rear brake are locked up, while we talking , he had road king and he said let my try to push the bike , and he couldn't push me with the bike. then he got 3/8 wrench from his house and help me out to get a little oil from valve on caliper, as we did and the bike start moving easy. I think that was the problem even though I don't understand why it went to limp mode last time.
for a thought I had changed rear pad last year with some semi metallic cheap one and they didn't work well for couple ride, as I heard some whispering noise with them, then bought ebc god quality but they did the same thing. any way I end up buying new caliper and rebuild the mc last year and everything work good for 3K miles or more, now I think the rotor is warped and have to buy new one with new pad and may rebuild the mc again. I just don't understand why is this happening . I read somewhere before that hd had recall on rear brake switch causing problem , but don't think the switch will lock up the brake ...and I don't know if the first owner did take it to them to change the switch either ughhh...