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They should always be left at the lowest setting on the wrench.
This thread made me curious, again. I'd always left mine zeroed out as I was taught years ago. It turn out, on larger ft lb click type torque wrenches, they should be stored at the lowest setting so the detent ball is held next to the spring while not compressing it. Usually about 20 ft lb.
No, they're not as accurate as the big three manufacturers for the reasons I posted before, not even close to as accurate or as reliable. I've probably calibrated over 10,000 torque wrenches in my lifetime and the harbor freight wrenches are better than not using a torque wrench but they are not as good as the major manufacturer's wrenches.
the harbor freight wrenches are better than not using a torque wrench but they are not as good as the major manufacturer's wrenches.
I gotta agree with both statements there and appreciate a pro weighing in on the topic.
The biggest thing is any kind of torque wrench is better then none,, people coming from a shade tree car mechanic background can strip a lot of screws/bolts on a bike without one.
120 inch pounds is less then what a spark plug needs to be tightened too!!
I've read various reviews and tests over the years (like the one link I posted) that claim they are as, or *very* close to as accurate as Mac, Snap-On, SK, etc. I suppose a HF wrench under continuous heavy use might not stay in spec as long as a professional wrench but here on this forum we're talking about amateur weekend mechanics.
Last November I dropped my 5 Torque wrenches off to my friend who owns a mechanic shop to have them checked by the Snap-On rep. None had ever been checked before and I thought some were getting old so it wouldn't hurt. The mechanic said the Snap On rep told him he could check any of them but if they needed calibrated they could only do so to Snap-On wrenches but they would need to be send them away and it was something like $100 per wrench. I said just have him check them all for now.
When I picked them up they were all well within spec. The wrenches consisted of a 30 year old Mac 3/8, a 25 year old SK 1/2", two Snap-On 1/4" about 15 years old, and two Harbor Freight Pittsburgh brand 1/2" and 3/8" that are 10 years old.
I appreciate quality tools but the there's no way I'd pay the cost for a new Snap-On today. As mentioned you can buy all three HF for under $50 on sale then also buy their digital torque adapter for $30 to check them and throw the wrench away if it ever gets out of calibration. http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-d...ter-68283.html
I agree if you have the money to blow on Snap on and or aircraft grade torque wrenches and your gonna work on more then one bike more then occasionally buy them. I I'm with the other guys who have buy their torque wrenches from Harbor Freight I have been using them for more then 10 years now on many of my bikes. Without any problems at all. I just replace them after a while if I have any doubts about it or if it's getting old. harleyReb
This thread made me curious, again. I'd always left mine zeroed out as I was taught years ago. It turn out, on larger ft lb click type torque wrenches, they should be stored at the lowest setting so the detent ball is held next to the spring while not compressing it. Usually about 20 ft lb.
I've got both spendy and inexpensive ones. DON'T drop them, if you do, all bets are off. They all are precision measuring devices and need to be treated as such.
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