I guess he needs a tank.

http://www.thegearpage.net/board/ind...dvice.1760472/

I gave him this forum's link, but he couldn't get registered.

 

Theres plenty of good info on that thread already. My tank was trashed too but I just cleaned it with carb cleaner and bb's. Never relined it. Looks like rust inside but doesnt leak and doesnt plug up the carb.

 

And there is always sloshing compound. Works on airplanes, so I see no reason it won't work on bike tanks. Once the tank is as clean as you can get it, you pour in the compound and slosh it around until all inside surfaces are covered. Let it dry and Bobs your uncle. It locks up any flakes and rust and puts a nice new clean fuel resistant interior finish in the tank. If you have rusted clear through you'll need to inert the tank and have it welded. then slosh it, but I agree there must be spares out there for that recent a bike.

 

Tell him to pull & drain the tank, take the petcock & screen out and get about 10' of sash chain from a hardware store, it's the smaller stamped link that looks kinda square. Drop in the tank and start shaking, takes a bit of effort but it will knock the rust and any peeling tank liner loose, just use an air hose to blow it clear after you fish the out. Looks like this ,

https://www.amazon.com/Ben-Mor-Chain...rds=sash+chain

 

You guys are great. Thanks.

 

I recommend BRASS sash chain, as it won't spark and possibly ignite any fuel vapors. I also tie a string to it and leave the end outside the tank. Easier to fish the chain back out when I'm done.

 

Recently went through this with my 2002 Fat Boy. As suggested, get a repop from J&P. I got one for less than $250 Gold Club price - cheaper than pretty much anything used on ebay.
All my sheet metal is out for paint as we speak. My painter has a guy who treated the new tank with some super industrial stuff that's used inside municipal water systems. He puts the tank on a rotisserie for a day or so to make sure everything is evenly coated. They've tested it on steel. One piece in a sealed container of gasoline and another in water. After a year, the product had not deteriorated.
According to my local HD service manager, their Tank Cream is only good for about 8-10 years and then will start to flake off. My tank was an ebay purchase from 2004 that had been treated. It lasted until early 2016 until large chunks began to peel off. There didn't seem to be anyone local with a great answer, hence the J&P tank.
Here's a redneck way that a local hot rod builder once used on a 55 Chevy pickup truck tank: Placed some clean stone in the tank, strapped it to the rear tire of a backhoe. Raised the rear of the hoe off the ground, put it in gear and let it rotate several hours. That truck has run for years upon years with no tank treatment and no issues.

 

Don't know what H-D was using back in '93/'94, but my tanks still look good inside after 23 years.

 

some super industrial stuff that's used inside municipal water systems ... Maybe Flint could use this?

I've used Kreem in several tanks and never had a problem. One was done 20 years ago. Lucky? Maybe.

 

How about putting the stuff that goes in a rock polisher in the tank and putting the tank in the cloths dryer. Of course he would have to pack the dryer with pillows blankets towels etc. etc. etc. to keep the tank from banging against the dryer drum and ruining the paint.