Hibernation do you
I just fill fill up gas tank, shut off pet ****, drain carb bowl, and hook up battery tender. (Once a month for 1 day)
I rebuilt one of my VWs engines last year, it was 15 years since last rebuild. The inside of the cases looked brand new. No scorch, no sludge, nothing out of the ordinary.
So I think I will stick with it, until I see a reason to do otherwise.
1) Your leaving acidic oil in the bike to eat away at your seals and gaskets.
2) Your not using your tender as it is intended to be used, its a maintainer, not a charger. Your slowly killing your battery with a constant drain/charge cycle.
3) Draining all your fuel is letting all your parts designed to be lubricated from the fuel dry out and rot.
Unless you leave the Oil cap right off off you shouldn't have any condensation in the Oil. If you do that's a problem that needs to be addressed
And a Volkswagen is not a Harley.
Change the Oil (all 3) wash it, fill it up with fuel with stabil or SeaFoam, run it for 10-15 minutes and bring your battery inside and put it on a tender ALL winter.
Change oils pre winter if storing for a long time. Old oil accumulates acids 'n stuff, you don't want that sitting still on metal for long periods of time. So logic says "change before it sits for months".
I toss an old fashioned trickle charger on the battery 1x weekend a month in the winter.
Todays gas has enough detergents and anti h2o in it...don't need 3rd party additives.
1) Your leaving acidic oil in the bike to eat away at your seals and gaskets.
2) Your not using your tender as it is intended to be used, its a maintainer, not a charger. Your slowly killing your battery with a constant drain/charge cycle.
3) Draining all your fuel is letting all your parts designed to be lubricated from the fuel dry out and rot.
Unless you leave the Oil cap right off off you shouldn't have any condensation in the Oil. If you do that's a problem that needs to be addressed
And a Volkswagen is not a Harley.
Change the Oil (all 3) wash it, fill it up with fuel with stabil or SeaFoam, run it for 10-15 minutes and bring your battery inside and put it on a tender ALL winter.
My bikes sits 2 maybe 3 months if its a bad winter. I know lots of guys that go much longer between oil changes DURING riding season. Oil doesnt magically turn acidic from sitting. Byproducts of combustion are what contaminate oil. Maybe if your oil had 10k miles on it , but if it has 2k, on it its not like your bike is sitting in a hydrochloric acid bath.
Nobody said I was using a tender as a charger other than you. Lead acid batteries are neither meant to be fully drained nor over charged. I easily get 4-5 years out of a battery. IN MY EXPERIENCE I have shortened battery life with battery constantly on a tender
todays fuels can and do contain ethanol. Not all states require disclosure on % contained. I try to use 100% gasoline when ever possible. However you may not know. Gas that sits can varnish. Ive never had problems with dried out gaskets, leaky pet *****, or clogged jets.
All crankcases have moisture in them. When the engine is at temperature, it mostly vaporizes. Starting in the cold, letting it warm up, crankcase ventilation, all contribute to it. Swings in temperature, humidity and metal surfaces will create condensation.
a pig is not a sheep. My guess is you have never worked on an air cooled VW to know just how much the 2 antiquated technologies share...aluminum heads and cases, overhead rockers, push rods, hydraulic lifters, jugs and pistons...
Ive owned and ridden bikes since 16, Im 42 now. Ive never had catastrophic failure, never had an engine grenade, bikes always fire right up in spring. I do put miles on my bikes and cars, and use them as intended.
you can do things your way if it makes you sleep better, and I can do things my way if I am comfortable with it. As has been said, they are not space shuttles.
We can agree to disagree, and grab a beer if our paths ever cross.
My bikes sits 2 maybe 3 months if its a bad winter. I know lots of guys that go much longer between oil changes DURING riding season. Oil doesnt magically turn acidic from sitting. Byproducts of combustion are what contaminate oil. Maybe if your oil had 10k miles on it , but if it has 2k, on it its not like your bike is sitting in a hydrochloric acid bath.
I clean it up good, put it up on my cycle stand to get the tires off the cold cement, also helps me push it under the stairs when I need to keep it. Put the tender and cover on it and wait till spring. Oh and stable in the gas
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; Oct 19, 2017 at 09:24 AM.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
I've said this a hundred times - STOP BITCHING ABOUT SALT. Just tell the truth = you can't handle cold temps. I've been using S100 Corrosion Protectant every year for the last umpteen years. Spray it on in November and wash it off in April = clean/corrosion free bike. looks as good as the day I bought it(them).
Way back in the day when I was young and dumb, I did store my bikes. I removed the battery/added Stabil/drained the bowls/baggies over the mufflers or steel wool in the ends/changed oil/tied clutch lever to grip/washed and waxed/put cardboard sheet between bike and concrete/squirt fogging oil into cylinders/put bike on centerstand/throw bed sheet over bike/close and lock garage door.
That was way too much work - then someone told me about the S100. Haven't looked back ever since.
Heated gear and S100 = ride all winter.
I think it's a lot safer riding in the winter because we're an anomaly then and drivers REALLY do see us.
Ride or hide, it's all up to you. I prefer to ride and have fun.












