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I'm not really sure I understand the question, but an LED runs on 5 volts, so there would be a resistor in parallel to drop the voltage to the working voltage for the led lights.
LED's can be spec'd to run on 3-48 volts, depends on the particular led...most automotive led's are 12v variety
It depends on how you use the grease. I had that experience just yesterday, installing new Sunpie lights and a BAL-1 tail light. I put too much grease in the sockets for the pins and the light would not work until I took apart and cleaned out the sockets with a toothpick.
You want very little grease on the actual metal contacts to complete the circuit.
Then smear the grease on the outside of any exposed metal to inhibit corrosion.
Oh man, the lights look awesome and couldn't be happier with the way they look. They made an incredible difference as far as visibility. My wife doesn't care anything about bikes but she commented how awesome it looked. It got her attention!
For anyone else interested...I went ahead and put a thin dab of the dielectric grease on all the other bulb connections. Everything worked afterwards.
I have always been a fan of dielectric grease on connectors that were not sealed. Been using it on incandescent, halogen, and LED bulbs and connectors for 30+ years, still a fan with no failures. Have a Ciro Vision X headlight, matching Passing Lamp bulbs, Fang LED turn signals and taillights, Bag Blades, and Custom Dynamics Tri-Bar brake light and strobe module, all assembled with a bit of dielectric grease, and everything works impeccably.
My business commonly installs and services 12v landscape lighting. I'm talking about custom-designed systems powered by good transformers and using a variety of fixtures and lamps, from simple incandescent to halogen to led. In these installations all of the wire runs are under something...be it stone, mulch, dirt, etc. Every main connection must have a generous amount of dielectric grease if it is subjected to constant moisture. At the fixture itself (where the bulb connects) we do not use dielectric grease at all. This is particularly true for led bulbs and fixtures. We've tried it both ways many times and found that dielectric grease (which is nonconductive) is too easy to over-apply and it will interfere with conduction in some cases. With led fixtures the power draw is so minimal in comparison to an equivalent incandescent fixture that any reduction of conductivity can impede function or performance.
My general rule is this: Dielectric grease should not be used between actual connection or contact points except in larger connectors supported by larger wire and offering plenty of current. Use it only as a corrosion inhibitor. It does not expel or prevent moisture intrusion, but it does help prevent moisture-induced corrosion or oxidation. In the end, it comes down to knowing how much real benefit you get from it and often it's not enough to worry with in connections that usually stay dry or dry quickly.
My business commonly installs and services 12v landscape lighting. I'm talking about custom-designed systems powered by good transformers and using a variety of fixtures and lamps, from simple incandescent to halogen to led. In these installations all of the wire runs are under something...be it stone, mulch, dirt, etc. Every main connection must have a generous amount of dielectric grease if it is subjected to constant moisture. At the fixture itself (where the bulb connects) we do not use dielectric grease at all. This is particularly true for led bulbs and fixtures. We've tried it both ways many times and found that dielectric grease (which is nonconductive) is too easy to over-apply and it will interfere with conduction in some cases. With led fixtures the power draw is so minimal in comparison to an equivalent incandescent fixture that any reduction of conductivity can impede function or performance.
My general rule is this: Dielectric grease should not be used between actual connection or contact points except in larger connectors supported by larger wire and offering plenty of current. Use it only as a corrosion inhibitor. It does not expel or prevent moisture intrusion, but it does help prevent moisture-induced corrosion or oxidation. In the end, it comes down to knowing how much real benefit you get from it and often it's not enough to worry with in connections that usually stay dry or dry quickly.
Thank you sir, you worded that where I get it. I don't like electricity...and respect my own ignorance messing with it. I'd rather face several armed intruders in the dark vs wiring a ceiling fan. These LED lights are expensive, yet I just couldn't understand being provided the grease by Ciro and specifically instructed by Custom Dynamics not to use it on the same damn connectors. I think now it's due to customers applying too much and having problems vs the time it takes corrosion to do its thing on the connection.
I am on an iPad and haven't figured out where the "Thanks" button is here. So Thanks
I have always been a fan of dielectric grease on connectors that were not sealed. Been using it on incandescent, halogen, and LED bulbs and connectors for 30+ years, still a fan with no failures. Have a Ciro Vision X headlight, matching Passing Lamp bulbs, Fang LED turn signals and taillights, Bag Blades, and Custom Dynamics Tri-Bar brake light and strobe module, all assembled with a bit of dielectric grease, and everything works impeccably.
I've been wanting to ask someone who has the Ciro Bag Blades. Does installing these make it a hassle to remove your bags? The wires obviously have to be run up under the seat and zip tied. Do they have a connection at the blade light to make removing the bag easy?
I've been wanting to ask someone who has the Ciro Bag Blades. Does installing these make it a hassle to remove your bags? The wires obviously have to be run up under the seat and zip tied. Do they have a connection at the blade light to make removing the bag easy?
Hey MD, I left you a detailed PM. They have a nice little miniature 4 pin connector between the bag blade harness and the controller. Depending on where you mount the controller, the connector is easily accessible. I mounted the controller under the seat, hidden above the battery. I also mounted the CD strobe module cleanly under the left side cover. Here are a couple pics, but can give you some more detailed ones if you like. Contact info. in PM. Yes that is water everywhere, just washed it and had not yet blown it off with compressed air. 😂
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