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Problem with fork spring install 2014 Street glide

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Old Oct 18, 2018 | 03:17 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Pete_On2
Was there a retaining washer and nut at the top of the spring?
Yes Had the spring all bound up
 
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Old Oct 18, 2018 | 07:42 PM
  #12  
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Why not get rid of that crap and go with a dual cartridge set up of your choosing instead of trying to make changes that may or may not work? Easy enough to set preload on them.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2018 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Longridertx
Why not get rid of that crap and go with a dual cartridge set up of your choosing instead of trying to make changes that may or may not work? Easy enough to set preload on them.

Dont have that deep of pockets
 
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Old Oct 19, 2018 | 07:26 AM
  #14  
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Here is the verdict in pictures got it all done with only 1 busted thumb. FYI called the shop and they said if I brought the fork leg to them just to compress that spring and put the retainer and nut on top, they'd charge me 100 bucks. WTF man i literally did it with scrap wood. Yes it took me longer, but the right tool for the job is a 200 dollar tool. They must really want to pay it off?????? The point is everything is done. Still has the single cartridge system in one side and the progressive spring in the other. After talking to progressive, I confirmed the spring rate will be the average of the rates in the forks. Example (50 lb spring in left leg + 40 lb spring in the right leg = overall spring rate of 45 lbs.) Due to the forks being forced to act as one unit by the axle.







 
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Old Oct 19, 2018 | 07:34 AM
  #15  
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A little-known fact of doing your own work is that nothing will go right until you bleed on it.
So you should be good.
My stuff performs flawlessly, and I have the scars to prove it.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2018 | 09:14 AM
  #16  
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Haha yep. That seems to be my luck as well. Looking forward to seeing how the increased spring rate and 15w oil performs. Trying to decrease the brake dive. I live in the city so the cagers pulling out infront of me is a major issue. Especially 2 up. Hoping the decreased dive won't throw my woman into me so hard.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2018 | 10:17 AM
  #17  
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Sure hope it works for you. Interesting fixture. Stash it and maybe you will need it again or someday someone will come across it and wonder what it was made to do. I made jigs and fixtures for a living once and always found them fascinating for some stupid reason.
 

Last edited by kap1; Oct 19, 2018 at 10:18 AM. Reason: typo
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Old Oct 19, 2018 | 11:11 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by kap1
Sure hope it works for you. Interesting fixture. Stash it and maybe you will need it again or someday someone will come across it and wonder what it was made to do. I made jigs and fixtures for a living once and always found them fascinating for some stupid reason.
Grew up on a farm and my old man builds drag car chassis/races for a hobby. Everything he has ever built has been done on a jig made out of 2x4's and plywood. I can't even fathom how he can think of all this in his head. He's currently building a pro mod style car, again on a 2x4 plywood jig.

 
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Old Oct 19, 2018 | 11:30 AM
  #19  
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Excuse the sidetrack but a bunch of us with Softail Breakouts (OEM Breakout suspensions suck), have done the fork mod described here to excellent effect:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...ools-tips.html

The Ricor Emulator unit is set by Ricor for you and is a true "drop in" installation. No modification to the damper tube is necessary. The Race Tech constant rate springs, selected based on "your" weight and riding style will serve you better than the "everyman's" progressive spring will,,,, IMHO.

In short, the emulators add "valving" to HD's basic and ancient single aperture system allowing you to have BOTH a smoother ride with better bump absorption and handling AND less front end dive in turns and when braking hard. You just can't have it both ways with a system which has no valves and where fork oil simply squishes back and forth through fixed X-section apertures.

Hope this helps,,,, good luck with your project.
 
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